Mark's Tasmanian Bush Blog

Hartz Peak - 16th January 2012

2012-01-21T21:53:00.000+11:00

Federation Peak from Hartz - 16th January 2012

It was a quite warm day in Hobart last Monday, with a warmer day to come on Tuesday. On the way home it occurred to me that a walk in a cool breeze up a mountain would be nice, and this was just the day and time of year for it. Isaac was up for it, and we headed off directly to Hartz. We got walking around 6:15pm and got to the top at about 7:25pm. I'd had delusions about watching the sunset, but that wasn't until 8:49 according to the internet. The breeze was so cool that I needed the soft-shell and hood, and would have been hard-pressed to stay there for an hour. We didn't hang around that long, although we had head torches for a dark return trip if necessary. It was very nice to climb Hartz Peak after a day at work, and even more surprising to find there was more than enough time to do so. The views in the evening light were lovely. I didn't see much in the way of colour in the sky as sunset passed later, so I don't think we missed much by leaving.

Flower (Eyebright?), Hartz Mountains - 16th January 2012

Mount Wellington - 14th January 2012

2012-01-21T21:30:00.001+11:00

It was a cloudy day with a bit of drizzle about, but reasonably cool so not too bad for a climb up Mount Wellington. Walked to the pinnacle via the Zig Zag Track, and really enjoyed the exercise.

Clarence and beyond from the ZigZag Track, Mount Wellington - 14th January 2012

There were a group of people standing around on the track where it straightens out just below the big transmission tower. It became obvious they were watching something off across the hillside. I could see someone with a saxophone, and someone else with what looked like a piano-accordion. MoFo thing obviously. There were weird squeaky noises coming in snatches across the windswept hillside. Everyone was rugged up against the chilly breeze, straining to hear the "music". I decided the emperor really didn't have any clothes. Some of the people watching clearly didn't know what they'd got themselves in for. I was reminded of the old joke; What's the difference between a piano accordion and a trampoline? (Answer below) The group were revealed later in the MoFo program as West Head Project And Out Hear. When I returned, the audience had joined the players across the hillside, and the performance was winding up.

Audience and players, West Head Project And Out Hear, Mount Wellington - 14th January 2012

And the difference? You take your shoes off to jump on a trampoline.

Mount Field National Park - 7th and 8th January 2012

2012-01-11T20:17:00.000+11:00

Had a couple of walks again at Mount Field over the weekend. Firstly on Saturday, which was "partly cloudy" was a walk to Tarn Shelf. At least it was cool, and Tarn Shelf is always pleasant. Secondly on Sunday which dawned rainy and stayed drizzly for some time, I walked to Platypus Tarn to see what the weather would do. It stayed drizzly until I'd decided to head home, then as I neared the visitor centre the sun came out and suddenly it was 20 degrees and crowded. Never mind.

This lookout is along the winding track between the lower ski lodges and the Rodway boardwalk. Lake Seal is below, and Lake Webster just visible in the background around the edge of Mount Bridges - 7th January 2012

Lake Seal from Tarn Shelf, Mount Field East in the background - 7th January 2012

The NPWS Public Shelter, erected below the closed Sitzmark Lodge - 7th January 2012

Platypus Tarn in between showers - 8th January 2012

Pandanni flower, Richea pandanifolia - 8th January 2012

Hartz Peak - 2nd January 2012

2012-01-03T22:20:00.001+11:00

To round out the weekend Isaac and I went to Hartz Peak. He didn't want to get up in time to see the sunrise, so we got there a bit after 9am. It was pretty warm, and on the way down we passed a lady who seemed a bit over-heated. She said she was fine, but I suspect she was sunburnt and a little parched. Hope she enjoyed it. There were plenty of people out enjoying the fine day, and the views were pretty good - Frenchmans just visible. I think this is probably ascent number 66, have been slacking off over the last year.

Rock Daisybush, Olearia ledifolia - Hartz Mountains - 2nd January 2012

Silky Milligania, Milligania densiflora, Hartz Mountains - 2nd January 2012

Mountain Rocket, Bellendena montana, Hartz Mountains - 2nd January 2012

Mount Field East - 1st January 2012

2012-01-03T21:00:00.001+11:00

Forest below Lake Nicholls in early morning mist, Mount Field National Park - 1st January 2012

I haven't done this walk for about 15 years I think. Last time was with my oldest son on my back, he'd have been around three, and we didn't go to the top as the wind and cold on the plateau was unpleasant that day.

Not so this last weekend, although the day dawned cloudy and drizzly at Mount Field. This walk can be started from either Lake Fenton or lower down the road at a signposted parking area, and done either as a circuit or an out-and-back from either spot. I've always started at the carpark lower down, and did so this weekend.

The walk starts with a shortish uphill stretch. A turnoff to the left signposted to Lake Fenton is passed. I honestly have no idea where this track comes out higher up, as I was unable to find an upper end to it later in the day. I will have to walk up it one day when I have the time and inclination. The right fork heads for Lake Nicholls and Mount Field East, and levels off to countour around the hill and then onto the narrow lateral moraine to the east of Lake Nicholls. There are views down to the lake here, and the track then descends slightly off the end of the moraine to the lake outlet and hut. For the first time in about four or five visits here I was rewarded with sunny views of the lake, and it is very beautiful. The forest is also pretty, and on Sunday the sunlight filtering through the soft mist and around the trees was a fine sight.

Slime mould on Lake Nicholls track - 1st January 2012

The hut has been renovated and is quite welcoming. I didn't pay any attention to whether camping is allowed in the hut, but it would certainly accommodate it from a physical point of view. There are plenty of boulders at the lake shore for sitting and enjoying a break and a snack.

Lake Nicholls, Mount Field National Park - 1st January 2012

Beyond the hut the track climbs significantly. Lake Rayner will be seen on the left, and the track then climbs across boulders and past increasing pandanni to emerge on the plateau of Windy Moor below the summit pile of Mount Field East. The cairned track climbs across boulders, occasinally steeply, to arrive at the summit which is marked by a large collapsed (demolished?) cairn. This now resembles a bowl-shaped windbreak, like the one on Hartz Peak only larger. Good views can be had from here, and in the warm sun on Sunday it was a good spot for a rest.

Waratah, Telopea truncata, Mount Field East Track - 1st January 2012

Descending to the base of the boulders again, a track heads off southwest across Windy Moor. This was quite dry, but could be a little damp underfoot after wet weather I think. the track climbs a little onto a ridge and then descends quite steeply to Lake Fenton. A sidetrack to Seagers Lookout is passed on the descent, and a sidetrip here would require an 80m re-ascent. The track emerges at the Lake Fenton mini-dam, another good spot for s rest. I looked here for a track that would take me back down to the carpark without requiring a walk down the road. There is a track which starts through a gate and passes the Lake Fenton hut, but it emerges on the road, and I couldn't find another obvious track. The road walk is about 2.5km. I do recall a nice ranger passing a friend and I on this stretch once as the rain fell and giving us a lift in back of his ute. Not on Sunday, but the road is relatively safe with good visibility at most points, and most cars are going quite slowly.

Mount Field West and Naturaliste Peak viewed from Mount Field East with Windy Moor and Newdegate Pass in between
- 1st January 2012

All in all this is a good walk, with interesting sights and good spots for breaks along the way. I took about 4.5 hrs with several stops to enjoy the lake, the peak and lunch.

Metallic Skink, Niveoscincus metallicus (I think) - Mount Field East - 1st January 2012

Tenzing Norgay at Twilight Tarn

2012-01-02T23:00:00.002+11:00

The Twilight Tarn Hut in the Mount Field National Park contains a somewhat dilapidated set of artifacts celebrating various stages in its history. Amongst these is an old 1963 logbook page which notes the visit to the hut of Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. The photo shows the relevant entries.

1963 Logbook Entry, wall of Twilight Tarn Hut - 31st December 2011

Many years ago (1987 I think) on a winter walk around this same route (a bit of an epic through deep snow and across frozen tarns) I visited this hut with various friends. Paul Baker, Tony Morris, Lois Triffitt and I think my brother Chris were amongst them. While we were at the hut someone pointed out loudly that Sherpa Tenzing had been there. This logbook entry must have been on the wall then too. There was an older gentleman there (we were about 22/23), visiting from New Zealand. He piped up and said "I came on that walk!", which rather stunned us. As I recall he had visited at least several times to walk here, and had also been a guest of the Hobart Walking Club who were hosting the "Conqueror of Everest". We were somewhat gobsmacked at the time.

However I note also here that the book is signed above the Tenzing entry (also in 1963 although I can't tell what the dates actually are) by Royce Padman, YHA Field Officer Tas, ?NFC ?Rep, Hobart - on a visit from the Adult Education Mountaineering Camp. I think NFC is the National Fitness Council. I am wondering if this was the same trip, and maybe it wasn't a HWC trip? Anyone who can enlighten further is welcome to send information. I will have to dig through some old Tasmanian Tramps to see if there is any mention of the Tenzing visit. I recall that Sir Edmund Hillary also visited and was taken to various places by the walking club.

FURTHER INFO: It seems indeed that it was the Adult Education Board Easter Camp. There are lots of photos from Jack Thwaites' collection in the Tasmanian Archives ('Find' Tenzing at this link). I think then that the date of Royce Padman's visit is written as "Easter" 1963. Easter Sunday was apparently on 14th April that year. I've found one photo online so far, 5 rows down, second from the right on this page, showing Tenzing holding a wallaby at Mount Field. The Jack Thwaites Bush Diaries site itself is very interesting.

Twilight Tarn Hut, Mount Field National Park - 31st December 2011

Lake Webster - Tarn Shelf Circuit - 31st December 2011

2012-01-02T21:38:00.002+11:00

After a long break, I'm going to try to catch up on the blog a bit, but in the meantime I'll put up a few very recent walks.

This circuit from Lake Dobson in the Mount Field National Park is a good solid walk with some great scenery. Starting from the carpark, head up the road towards the ski fields. After around 900m a signposted track heads downhill to the right, leading to Platypus Tarn, Lake Seal, Lake Webster and Twilight Tarn. It is around 3.5 km along here to Lake Webster. Turnoffs to Platypus Tarn and Lake Seal will be passed. Each makes a picturesque side trip, Lake Seal probably more so. The Platypus Tarn track requires a solid re-ascent. Snakes may be encountered along the way in warm weather.

Twilight Tarn Hut - 31st December 2011

The Broad River is crossed where it commences at Lake Webster, and the track then rises steadily to Twilight Tarn. Here is the old hut (day and emergency use only), which has some decaying artifacts inside, including a logbook reference to the visit of Sherpa Tenzing Norgay in 1963 (see next blog entry). In earlier days this hut and tarn hosted parties and ice skating.

Backhouse Tarn, Tarn Shelf - 31st December 2011

The track continues up the hill, passing the Twisted Tarns before arriving at Lake Newdegate. This lake lies at the northern end of Tarn Shelf. This is a quite spectacular rock shelf part way down the steep side of the Rodway Range, with many large and small tarns scattered along its length. It is well worth a visit. It is especially impressive around April when the fagus is out, but is enjoyable at any time. The track rises to the Rodway Hut over undulating terrain past numerous tarns, with spectacular views both up the hill to the Rodway Range and downhill to Lakes Webster and Seal. There are also views across the deep valley to Mount Field East. The tarns can be good for a swim on a warm day, but beware, Tasmanian tarns can be very cold even when the weather is warm.

Dracopyllum milliganii

The Rodway Hut sits at the bottom of the Rodway ski tow. Beyond the hut, the track rises then heads east on quite level ground, mainly duckboarded. At a track intersection, the left fork (not the left turn to the lookout) is probably the more picturesque, but takes a little longer as it winds amongst the boulders and snowgums to arrive at the lower ski lodges and the ski access road. (Taking the right fork will bring you to the closed Sitzmark ski lodge, which can also be worth a look. This track is a little easier.) The way then descends the steep zig-zagging ski field access road, before heading off to the right along a pleasant track which descends to the shores of Lake Dobson and returning to the carpark.

This was a good walk the other day - it was quite warm, and I was pleased to be able to get water regularly. One Tiger Snake was encountered a little below Twilight Tarn, but he was more alert than me and was leaving the track by the time I saw him. The track was quite dry, although I think at times the section in the valley can be a little wet under foot. It is about a four hour walk, although with stops and sightseeing it could take longer, and is about 13.5km.

Quick Book Review - The Abels Volume Two

2011-08-07T19:12:00.001+10:00

This book has finally been published. I've been waiting about 12 years since I bought the first one, but it's 15 since that was published. Anyway, it is terrific, and worth every penny, especially when you're lucky and catch Fullers on a "20% off everything"day!

They've put a series of articles about Tasmanian mountains in the front, then there's a good article about each Abel, mostly more substantial than the articles in the first volume, and some additions and changes to articles from the first volume. The photos are really well chosen, and all-in-all a lot of work has gone into this. Most heartening for me is the recognition of Sharlands Peak as an actual Abel, no doubt as a result of my extensive campaign for this status...;-)

I strongly expect that the Parks and Wildlife service have attempted to keep this book unpublished. It provides a good number of walk descriptions which are not easily obtainable elsewhere, including that for Nevada Peak which I provide on email request. (More importantly for that walk, it provides road directions for navigating the bewildering array of forestry roads out behind Lonnavale.) P&W have put quite a lot of effort in past years into stopping the publication of walk descriptions for walks that were rated as 4 or 5 (as I recall) under their track rating scheme. Many of the walks in this book would be rated as such. On balance, while I might personally like to hide Nevada Peak to protect its fragile alpine plateau, it's not possible to stop the publication of walk descriptions. Probably the answer is that we need to manage all these places to maximise both the capacity for people to visit them and their capacity to withstand that.

Nevertheless, the book is great, and should stimulate some expeditions with its enthusiastic and evocative descriptions of such wonderful places. $39.95 at Fullers Bookshop, Hobart, and other sellers of Tasmaniana.

Freycinet - 26th and 27th May 2011

2011-08-07T18:42:00.002+10:00

Pacific Gull, Larus pacificus, Hazards Beach - 27th May 2011

The plan was for a three day walk - down to Cooks Beach to camp, explore Bryans Beach and a little further south to Schouten Passage, then return to Wineglass Bay over the hills, maybe climbing Mount Freycinet on the way, and then back to Coles Bay. It wasn't to be.

Wineglass Bay Beach, Freycinet - 26th May 2011

The weather was very nice, cool and sunny. I made good time over the hill to Wineglass Bay, and then out onto Hazards Beach. Here I saw five pelicans along the beach ahead of me. They were very wary and set off across the bay before I got anywhere near them.

Pelicans, Pelecanus conspicillatus, Hazards Beach - 27th May 2011

South of Hazards Beach I realised my left achilles tendon was somewhat tender, and it continued to become more sore. I've had this before, on the Overland Track years ago in both achilles tendons. By the time I got to Cooks Beach it was quite painful. I set up camp, and hobbled about. Soaking it in the very cool water relieved it somewhat and I slept on it. Next day it seemed worse, feeling swollen and very stretched, as if it wanted to break. My choice was therefore sit quietly at the beach or slowly and carefully walk out, minimising uphill stretches. I chose the latter, Cooks Beach might be gently attractive, but it's not the most exciting venue, and I didn't even have a fishing rod, so I wasn't keen on a whole day of sitting about.

Beach detail, Freycinet - 26th May 2011

I dosed up on panadol and hobbled out to Coles Bay, via the coastal track rather than over the hill. from this point of view, I achieved some small success, as I have never bothered with the coastal track before, so I did a new track that I wouldn't have otherwise been along. The heel was annoying and tender the whole way, but the drugs helped.

View south along Hazards Beach, Freycinet - 27th May 2011

While resting the heel at home later, I read on the net that a sore achilles tendon cannot be properly relieved by making the swelling go down or taking anti-inflammatories - these merely mask the damage you have done and are doing. You actually have to rest it so that it heals itself.

Anyway, apart from the pain, the walking was easy and enjoyable. There is plenty of interest to see, and the Cooks Beach campsite is a good one. There is a composting toilet and a water tank. You need to check with the rangers whether there is water in the tank, but there generally is unless it has been very long dry spell. The rangers tend to be pessimistic about it too - "there probably is", "we haven't checked ourselves, but we've heard there is water in the tank", etc. The views from the tops of Mount Graham and Mount Freycinet are really the highlight, so from this point of view I just didn't make it this time. Never mind, there's always next time.

Banksia flower, Banksia marginata, Freycinet - 26th May 2011

At the south end of Hazards Beach are these rocks, great to sit on for a snack or lunch. However they are also an intrusion of ~~dolerite~~ lamprophyre (per. Leaman, Step into History, 2001) into the granite, and the first photo shows the gross intrusion of the darker lamprophyre into the lighter pink granite. This latter rock is the same as that which makes up The Hazards. The second photo shows a detail of a much smaller streak of intruded lamprophyre on the margins of the main intrusion, with an included quartz crystal from the granite. It's really worth a look as you take a rest. There is also a campsite here, and sometimes the creek even runs to provide nearby fresh water. Isaac and I camped here for an night years ago.

Lamprophyre intrusion into granite, south end of Hazards Beach, Freycinet - 26th May 2011

Detail of intruded lamprophyre in granite with large incorporated quartz crystal,
south end of Hazards Beach, Freycinet - 26th May 2011

Ridgeway Circuit - 25th May 2011

2011-07-17T20:39:00.001+10:00

Sixpence Cave, Ridgeway - 25th May 2011

Trying to catch up on my blogs here. In the same vein as my last post, this walk is a short one, low down on Mount Wellington, and I'm going to include it in my Mount Wellington Walks. It's good in dubious weather, and OK for a bit of bush exercise in all but the worst weather, and there are some interesting things to look at.

The walk starts at the Ridgeway Reservoir carpark and takes in Sixpence Cave, Halls Saddle, the Pipeline Track and the Chimney Pot Hill summit. Overall it takes 1 1/2 to 2 hours if you spend a bit of time looking about as you go, but can be done in around an hour if walked briskly. The walk description I suggest is here, but feel free to get the Taroona 1:25,000 map and work out your own route.

Ferntree and The Springs - 23rd May 2011

2011-07-10T18:53:00.000+10:00

The week started off with some poor weather, rain and chilly winds. This was a good opportunity to try to piece together the best walk around Ferntree and The Springs to take in the various interesting and historic sights. This sort of walk can often be done when walks further up the mountain are likely to be uncomfortable or inadvisable due to the weather. I have provided a detailed description (PDF) of a walk that takes in O'Gradys Falls, the Octopus Tree, Sphinx Rock, The Springs, Rocky Whelans Cave, Silver Falls and other items of interest, and minimises backtracking and climbing hills twice. My current plan is to put up a website with about 15 to 20 Mount Wellington walks, including a few you can't find a guide to elsewhere. This will be one of them. Feel free to print out the PDF and take the walk if you wish. The Mount Wellington Recreation Map is strongly recommended for use with this walk, and others.

O'Gradys Falls, Mount Wellington - 23rd May 2011

Collins Bonnet - 21st May 2011

2011-07-09T18:34:00.000+10:00

The Saturday was a nice looking day, so I chose Collins Bonnet hoping for views into the valleys of both the Huon and Derwent, as well as some good views to the west. This walk is a good climb, and I was pleased to discover that recent weeks of much walking had greatly improved my fitness. Very nice walk from Myrtle Forest behind Collinsvale, with a chilly breeze on the summit. Only spoiling factor was the group of people on the summit who assumed that everyone else wanted to hear their attention-seeking, histrionic discussion of recent exploits. I must be getting old and crotchety.

For reference, Collins Bonnet and Trestle Mountain together are known as Sleeping Beauty in the Huon Valley. Collins Bonnet forms the hair, forehead, nose, long horsey upper lip, lower lip and weak chin, and Trestle Mountain forms the bosom. I understand the mountain has also been known as Boars back to people in the Derwent Valley.

Trestle Mountain from the summit of Collins Bonnet

Trestle Mountain with Mount Weld and the Snowy Range in the distance.

Sleeping Beauty's "nose"", looking south from the summit (upper lip!) of Collins Bonnet

New Norfolk seen from the summit of Collins Bonnet

Walls of Jerusalem - 16th to 19th May 2011

2011-07-03T20:54:00.002+10:00

Westwall and King Davids Peak from Solomons Throne at sunrise

The weather forecasts were becoming quite changeable and less reliable, so I was trying to pick a suitable window to have a few days at the Walls, aiming to get some good opportunities for climbing mountains and taking photos. I settled on a few days and headed off.

Trappers Hut, part-way up the climb to the Walls of Jerusalem

The walk starts off forestry and hydro roads out behind Mole Creek. The carpark was previously known for car burglaries and vandalism, and there is still a sign there warning of this. I haven't heard of any problems recently. The day was slightly drizzly, but I headed off up the hill. Camping is now firmly recommended for Wild Dog Creek, rather than Solomons Jewels, inside the Walls or even Dixons Kingdom. There is a composting toilet and really good tent platforms at Wild Dog, and it takes just five minutes to walk up the hill to Herods Gate. There are also removable toilets at Dixons Kingdom, so it seems the PWS expect people to camp there. Talking to two blokes who walked in the same day as me, they had camped in a tent, and used the hut to cook in. They reckoned they were much warmer in the tent than in the hut, which was like a big fridge. Wild Dog Creek was fine for me, and it's only a little further from most of the central features than camping at Dixons.

View to the Du Cane Range from the slopes of Mount Jerusalem

Anyway, the weather was cold and a bit damp, nightfall arriving early. Very comfortable in the tent though. Day two dawned cloudy, but not raining. Went off and climbed Mount Jerusalem via Dixons Kingdom. Views were quite good eastwards, but the Pelions and Du Canes were largely obscured by cloud to the west. Climbed The Temple as well, but the weather was basically dull without being wet.

Ice on a pond, near Lake Salome

Day three was similar, and after some wandering around the Pool of Bethesda, I climbed Solomons Throne in the hope that the cloud would clear off while I was there. The cloud wasn't very thick, and at the summit the sun almost managed to break through and actually shine, although the wind was very chilly. Later, after some wanderings the sun did come out nicely at Dixons Kingdom for a while. After returning to Wild Dog Creek, the weather really did improve towards evening, so I headed back and climbed part way up the temple for some sunsett-y shots of the area inside the Walls. they weren't great, but the walk was very nice compared to the dull and windy walks earlier.

Sunrise across the Central Plateau's lakes, from Solomons Throne

The next morning dawned clear, so I set off very early. After having to change my headtorch batteries by cigarette-lighter-light part-way (duuuh!), I managed to arrive at the top of Solomons Throne a few minutes before the sun rose beyond the expanse of the Central Plateau. The views all around were superb, and I started to think the trip had been worthwhile despite the three dull days to this point. A quick climb part way up The Temple affords a good clear view of the Westwall and internal Walls area. The last photo is a stitched panorama form there.

St Davids Peak, Lake Salome and Clumner Bluff from Solomons Throne

Du Cane Range from Solomons Throne at sunrise

Stitched panorama of The Westwall (Solomons Throne to St Davids Peak) from The Temple, early morning.

South Cape Bay - 14th May 2011

2011-05-22T15:32:00.001+10:00

With a warning about dangerous surf and forecasts of eight-metre swells for Saturday 14th May, there was only one place to go: South Cape Bay. There are probably others, but walking to the bay also provides some good exercise. Never mind the attendant forecasts of rain, the seas promised some spectacular sights. In the event the weather was a bit windy and occasionally drizzly, and it was certainly chilly out on the south coast, but overall the weather wasn't too bad. The waves were spectacular too, although I'd hoped to see them washing deeply across the entire beach. The beach was quite walkable, with only the occasional large wave managing to touch the little rocky projection in the middle with a few inches of froth. I note in hindsight that the tide was actually lowest during my visit. When walking on the beach however, the waves as they broke, hundreds of metres out, were clearly higher than where I was standing. Probably what we need to make it really spectacular is eight-metre swells forecast during an actual storm. Not sure how you'd manage to take photos of it though....

South Cape Bay washed by eight-metre swells, viewed from the cliffs - 14th May 2011

The view between Lion Rock and Coal Bluff, South Cape Bay - 14th May 2011

Foam in a wave-lashed South Cape Bay - 14th May 2011

Mount Wellington - 10th May 2011

2011-05-22T15:18:00.001+10:00

Walked from Ferntree heading for the summit. From the city a dusting of snow across the upper half of the mountain was visible, which often means quite deep snow across the plateau, at least deep enough to make walking uncomfortable. Having reached the Springs via Fern Glade and Radfords Track, I headed for the Icehouse Track. Near the top of this, the snow became evident. It wasn't very deep generally, but in places it would have been deep enough to make walking more difficult, except it was really firm and dry, even providing a nice grip. Made for very nice walking across the summit plateau. I met two blokes on the plateau who reported the Zig-Zag Track was really quite icy, which confirmed as best my intention to return via the Panorama Track.

Up the Icehouse to the south and down the Panorama in the north makes for a sort of "Grand Tour" of Mount Wellington. There's a bit of road walking required to use the Panorama, but on a weekday it was fairly quiet and safe. I completed the walk with a descent to Junction Cabin down Hunters Track, ascending to The Springs and finishing with the short descent back to Ferntree. Two (different) blokes at Junction Cabin had ascended via the Old Hobartians Track from Lenah Valley, and I think being an old Hobartian, I should probably do that one sometime. It has a side connection (roughly, I think) to the bottom of Lost World, which might make for an even "grander" tour.

Boulders on the summit plateau of Mount Wellington - 10th May 2011

Nevada Peak - 6th and 7th May 2011

2011-05-20T20:43:00.004+10:00

In a week of variable weather, the Friday and Saturday looked like providing the best opportunity to camp at high altitude in reasonable conditions. Off to Nevada Peak for the first time since my last overnight trip there. This is however, a day walk if you wish, taking around six to eight hours depending on your route and general speed. The tarns and the alpine plateau are lovely though, and an environmentally-sensitive overnight stay at the Snowdrift Tarns is great. I have some more information about the walk here, which will direct you to email me for the complex road directions and a walk description, including details for returning via Woolleys Tarn.

I climbed to the tarns in overcast, chilly and misty conditions. The clouds seemed to consist of a huge amount of very fine, but very wet, drizzle, and I was quite chilly by the time I got to the tarns. Once in the tent and with a coffee and nibbles inside me, all was well. The drizzle persisted until dark though, with the view consisting of the inside of the cloud and a small area of foot-high alpine herbfield around the tarn. I was hopeful that the weather would remain calm at least, in high winds the plateau here is a harsh environment despite some shelter from westerly weather afforded by the mountain ridge.

Waking quite early, my first look outside suggested that the cloud remained. However, once out of the tent I realised that the peak was out of the cloud, and the sun was rising beautifully. I set off to climb Nevada Peak immediately, camera in hand. Views were great and the following photos give a taste. The views of the Anne Range are particularly fine from Nevada Peak. Having returned to the tarn for breakfast later, the clouds again closed in, and by the time I had retreated across the plateau to return to my car, the peak was only occasionally visible through swirling clouds again. In the end, it was worth the walk for the views from the peak and plateau, but I had been dubious about it on the Friday evening huddled in my tiny tent.

Eastward view across the lower Snowdrift Tarn
from upper slopes of Nevada Peak - 7th May 2011

My own personal triple-rainbow appeared just above me in the
misty morning air, Nevada Peak - 7th May 2011

Snowy South and the upper Snowdrift Tarn from Nevada Peak summit - 7th May 2011

Anne Range from Nevada Peak - 7th May 2011

Mount Field West - 3rd May 2011

2011-05-11T21:38:00.000+10:00

Mount Field West seen from the Rodway Range. K-Col Hut visible on the left - 3rd May 2011

With good weather forecast, at least for most places, a good mountain walk was in order. I chose Mount Field West, a walk I have always enjoyed, if always found to require a good deal of effort. The walk is 16km and requires about 750m of climbing, including the climb back over the Rodway Range on the return. A significant portion of the walk is on boulders which require care and extra effort, and once you are beyond the Tarn Shelf turnoff, the track is mostly quite rough, even where it's not on boulders. The summit plateau at Mount Field West is lovely though, and views to the west and southwest can be terrific, Florentine Valley forestry operations notwithstanding. On this day I got pretty good views for much of the day, but the cloud came in while I was at the actual peak, so no westward views this time.

Walk Description: The track is well marked for use in clear weather, but may be difficult to follow in rain and fog. Be aware that once in the vicinity of the peak, the return is over several kilometres of extremely exposed route. There are no more sheltered alternatives, although there is a very small hut at K-Col which would provide shelter in an emergency. This hut has no stove. This walk is not worth attempting in poor weather. Cloud, rain and wind should all give pause. Be prepared to alter walk plans at Lake Dobson, or even once in the vicinity of Tarn Shelf if weather conditions seem poor. You will get a taste of them on the top of the Rodway Range, and if weather there makes walking uncomfortable, be aware that this will persist for the remaining distance of the walk until you are back below the Rodways, or even until you are back below the Ski Village.

The walk commences at Lake Dobson, following the track around the lake and then quite steeply up the ski lodge access road. Where the first ski lodges are found, I prefer the walking track that passes in front of them and then winds up to the plateau through boulders and alpine gums. This emerges on the main board walk which heads along towards Tarn Shelf and the main bulk of the Rodway Range. The track again climbs quite steeply onto the Rodway Range, starting a lengthy traverse on boulders. These slow progress somewhat and require greater exertion. Being somewhat unbalanced, I always find them more awkward. The way is marked with cairns and poles and winds along the top of the range through a depression known as The Lions Den before eventually crossing to the western side and descending towards K-Col. The hut will be clearly visible a little way up the far side of the col. K-Col is so named because of the shape of the topography - the col joins the Rodway Range to the peaks of Tyenna, Florentine, Naturaliste and Field West, making a sort-of "K" on the map. The hut used to have a water tank and coal stove, but these are no more. Possibly to discourage camping, as the hut is now clearly signed as being for emergency use only. Water can be obtained a little way beyond the hut from Clemes Tarn. I don't vouch for the quality of the water, but I didn't catch anything from it.

Clemes Tarn in a misty mood - 3rd May 2011

Beyond Clemes Tarn the track climbs steadily along the ridge towards Naturaliste Peak, before passing alongside this eminence and emerging onto the large summit plateau. The pools and vegetation here are very attractive, and it is a lovely place on a sunny and clear day. The actual summit is at the top of a ramp rising to the west from the northern end of the plateau, and the track is marked across the plateau and up the ramp. There is a good sized cairn at the summit, and space to sit on flat rocks if the weather is conducive to eating lunch there. At the summit, you are 8km from the carpark, so a solid return walk including the bouldery traverse of the Rodways is required. The only variation I sometimes make to the return is to follow the boardwalk all the way to the ski village and then descend the uppermost section of road to rejoin the inward track.

Looking back towards Naturaliste Peak across the Mount Field West summit plateau,
from the summit of Mount Field West - 3rd May 2011

Mount Wellington - 2nd May 2011

2011-05-11T20:51:00.000+10:00

Dolerite boulders on the southern end of the summit plateau, Mount Wellington - 2nd May 2011

It was a middling sort of day, cloud around the mountain but not raining. Had a nice walk from the Springs to the summit on the Zig-Zag Track, and then across the plateau, returning via the Icehouse Track. The breeze was light, and made for a good walk.

Mount Maria - 29th April 2011

2011-05-11T12:01:00.001+10:00

Mount Maria from the track near Counsell Creek - 29th April 2011
(The track turns left just beyond the bridge.)

Mount Maria is a good solid walk from Darlington. I previously climbed it as a sidetrip on my return from camping at Encampment Cove. The track runs up a ridge as a sidetrip off the Inland Track. Mount Maria is 709m tall, so this represents a significant climb for those not used to such ascents. The distance is 16km, so all up the walk requires more effort than Bishop and Clerk. A moderate level of fitness is recommended before attempting this walk. Note also that while much of the walk is on a well-made track with surprisingly few obstructions for Tasmania, the last section is across boulders and a little easy scrambling is required just before the summit.

Walk Description: Leaving Darlington, head south towards the Painted Cliffs. Cross Counsell Creek and take the left-hand turn ahead. This is clearly marked to Mount Maria. From here the track heads pretty much straight for the peak, gradually becoming steeper throughout its length. A little way up the hill there is a track intersection. Mount Maria is to the left and the right fork continues southwards as the "Inland Track". Pushbikes can be parked at this point if you have ridden them here. The track continues to climb, and is easy to follow. There is a good spot at the top of a small sandstone cliff for a morning tea break. Eventually the track emerges on to a sizable dolerite rock scree and the way is marked across and then up. This scree is not nicely laid out with a windy track like the one on Bishop and Clerk, but requires a bit of clambering. The trig point will become obvious above from here, and a bit of easy scrambling will see you on the summit enjoying views of The Isthmus, South Maria, the mainland and more. The return is basically a retrace, and most people will find the boulders take about as long to get down safely as they did to climb up laboriously. Overall, most parties will take the advertised 5 to 7 hours for this walk, and some will take longer.

The Isthmus and South Maria from Mount Maria - 29th April 2011

The Painted Cliffs, Maria Island

2011-05-11T11:39:00.001+10:00

The Painted Cliffs at sunset - 28th April 2011

This is a nice easy walk over the hill to the south of Darlington. From the top of the hill, you can see these cliffs at the far end of Hopground Beach. When you get down to Counsell Creek, with the new bridge, you can either head along the beach or continue along the road. If using the road, there are some steps at the far end of the beach taking you down to the start of the cliffs. These cliffs are best visited when the tide is low, and I think if you went at high tide, you would have a greater chance of getting damp as you clamber around the cliffs. You need to go around the first and second little points, and make your way along in front of the taller part of the cliffs. The cliffs are Triassic sandstone, the rich patterns caused by minerals in the rock and the way in hich they have subsequently weathered. I visited them a couple of times on my recent trip, once at sunset, which was very attractive.

Maria Island Historic Walks

2011-05-11T11:27:00.000+10:00

The convict barn above the jetty at Darlington - 30th April 2011.

You can easily spend a day (or more) just wandering around Darlington and taking in the various historic buildings, remains and sites. The Parks and Wildlife Service have several publications available that provide basic information, and several of the buildings contain information, displays and books that will provide more info. The parks.tas.gov.au website has a lot of info, and most of the historical information is in this part of the site. More general Maria Island info is here, and there's a downloadable pdf specifically about the history around Darlington. You may find other stuff if you ferret about.
There are a number of books with good information, perhaps most easily found and accessible being Maggie Weidenhofer's "Maria Island, A Tasmanian Eden". You can sometimes find this in second-hand bookshops, on eBay or on Biblioz. (Note that Biblioz tends to be very expensive!) If looking for secondhand Tasmanian books I recommend: Just Tassie Books, Astrolabe Booksellers and the Imperial Bookshop. The third of those is a true experience, just don't expect tidiness!

The Fossil Cliffs, Maria Island - 28th April 2011

2011-05-08T21:20:00.001+10:00

Bishop and Clerk from the shore below the Fossil Cliffs - 28th April 2011

I had a relaxing day around Darlington - fossils, human history and a sunset visit to the Painted Cliffs (later). I've visited the Fossil Cliffs many times, but have actually never ventured beyond the little "quarry" plateau. On this occasion, having been shown the track by another visitor, I went down to the shoreline east of the quarry and along the platforms and bouldery shore at the base of the cliffs, which was well worthwhile. Note however that you need to take great care if going beyond the quarry - the day I went was low tide with a very gentle sea. This is clearly a place where large waves can and do sweep everything below the cliffline. You will need to carefully choose low tide to visit, and not venture too far down if the sea is dangerous.

Walk Description: To visit the Fossil Cliffs, head towards the jetty, and then beyond up the obvious tracks, or just straight across the hillside towards the barn on the hill north of the silos. There are various historic sites along the track to add additional interest, but in general follow the track (old tram line) as it contours very easily northwards alongside the airstrip towards Cape Boullanger. The track curls around to the east and arrives at the low end of the Fossil Cliffs with views to Bishop and Clerk. The track heads downhill onto the little plateau where limestone was quarried. Here there are boulders and a large sign explaining some of the fossils you can see.

The rocks here are interesting enough, but to see the fossils at their best, continue to the far end of the plateau. Here a scrappy little track heads steeply down a short way onto the large boulders and rock platforms of the foreshore. Be very careful here. I don't think there is any official sanction for proceeding here, so you need to take responsibility for checking the sea condition. As will be obvious, a large wave could turn you and your family into a tragic statistic very quickly. At low tide in gentle seas, you can easily spend an hour or two exploring the base of the cliffs. I didn't go too far around the cliffs, as there comes a point fairly quickly where you have to get wet feet. I also have no idea where you would find safety as you progressed further around the base of the larger parts of the cliffs. With a little more information, there is probably a heap of exploring you could do. Anyway, to avoid becoming a statistic, I stopped at the point where another group decided they need snorkels and flippers to proceed.

The walk is very short and very easy, but can occupy time very effectively if conditions are good for explring the shore at the base of the cliffs. I would suggest if you can time it for low tide on a calm day that you allow 3 hours or so depending on your capacity for avid investigation of natural features. Also, I note that this location appears to be outside the "no fishing" part of the marine reserve, so might offer some good rockfishing opportunities.

A section of a bed in the Fossil Cliffs, Maria Island, composed almost
entirely of fossil shellfish - 28th April 2011

The rocks are fascinating, and confusing. I have found a great document on the web explaining the various layers that are present, but you would need to have it in your hand as you explored to fully understand the rock layers here. I'll take it with me next time I visit. This document is in the Mineral Resources Tasmania database, and gives lots of Maria Island geological info in a pretty detailed way. The Fossil Cliffs are described starting on page 9 (Basal Beds). There are beds of fossils here, metres thick, in which the entire bed seems to be composed of fossils. There are other beds with wildly varying sizes and types of boulder/pebble inclusions. All very interesting.

I will put some more photos up on Picasa as I find time to edit them a little.

The Isthmus, Maria Island - 27th April 2011

2011-05-05T11:29:00.001+10:00

Riedle Bay, Maria Island - 27th April 2011

The south end of Maria Island is generally best visited (if walking) from a camping base at either French's Farm or Encampment Cove. This is what I did on my previous trip. You can get to these places either by walking from Darlington or being dropped at Encampment Cove or Chinamans bay by boat. I believe one of the ferry companies may offer this service. You can also cycle, but if you are biking, you may find that you can visit South Maria in daytrips from Darlington. Just be aware that the track across the Isthmus is very sandy and I think cycling on it would be very difficult - these few kilometres might be a push.

The south end of the north island and South Maria itself are very interesting. Many walkers to French's Farm just walk a further very short distance to Chinamans Bay, which is the northern curve of Shoal Bay and is a very calm sheltered spot to sit for lunch. I walked on a bit further to The Isthmus, as I wanted to visit Riedle Bay. This is the ocean beach on the eastern side of The Isthmus. Just be aware that walking this far is around 14.5km each way, and can make for quite a long walk for those not used to such distances. Other walks possible from Darlington, but also quite lengthy, are to Encampment Cove, Point Lesueur (convict cell ruins) or the beaches north of there. These beaches include Four Mile Beach, Soldiers Beach and Bloodstone Beach. It is apparently possible to walk to Point Lesueur via the roads and tracks and then return via the coast to Return Point (track from there to the main road) or Four Mile Beach. This might be a walk for my next trip.

Walk Description: It is around 11 km from Darlington to French's Farm. Further walks beyond there will extend the total walk to 25-29km. Make sure you really want to walk this far in a day. There are few hills, and those which exist are quite gentle and low, so your exertions won't be added to by vertical ascents. The road heads south out of Darlington, over the first headland on the same track as the Painted Cliffs walk. There are few navigational problems, and the track proceeds southwards, undulating over the low headlands and around the coastline. At Four Mile Creek/Beach the track heads a little more inland, before arriving at French's Farm. From here you choose to walk on to Chinamans Bay (very close by), Encampment Cover or The Isthmus. The Chinamans Bay track heads off to the right just beyond the bridge. To walk on further to the wilder ocean beach of Riedle Bay you have to walk about 35 minutes on the softish sandy track until you find an obvious track crossing the main track. Turn left and in a couple of minutes you emerge on the large beach which in heavy weather can be quite wild. I estimated that the total walk, not including any wandering up and down the beach was 28 or 29km.

Riedle Bay may only be good for swimming at certain points or in very calm weather. On each of my visits (three now) it has appeared to have very significant undertow and rips, and could only be recommended to the very experienced. The far northern and southern ends of the beach may be safer and more sheltered. The centre of the beach can certainly be subjected to large waves sweeping up to and even into the dunes when the weather is rough. However, this also makes this an attractive place to visit. If you want a gentle paddle and swim, maybe the western side of The Isthmus would be preferable.

Bishop and Clerk (Maria Island) - 26th April 2011

2011-05-05T08:03:00.004+10:00

Bishop and Clerk from the Fossil Cliffs - 26th April 2011

Bishop and Clerk is the prominent peak at the northeastern extremity of Maria Island, obvious on the approach from the sea, and visible from many points around Darlington. It provides superb views of the northern end of the island, Freycinet Peninsula to the north and the mainland. Views can also be had along the eastern side of Maria Island.

The walk will take most people 3 1/2 to 5+ hours to complete including some time to sit on the summit and take in the view. It is a solid climb of over 600m vertically, so a moderate level of fitness will be useful. The highest part of the mountain has a small amount of rock scrambling which occasionally defeats people otherwise comfortable with the walk. Along this walk and on the summit there are very large unprotected cliffs, so care is required. Most importantly, children need to be closely supervised when walking near the Fossil Cliffs.

Walk Description: Take the track behind the penitentiary out of Darlington, heading east towards the reservoir. Avoid the turnoffs for the Reservoir Circuit walk and continue north out onto open grassy slopes up to the Fossil Cliffs. These are unfenced and have steep rolling, crumbly, slippery edges. Keep children close at all times. The track turns eastwards and climbs on grassy hills towards Bishop and Clerk. There are fine views of the peak and the cliffs at various points, with the sea far below. The track enters the forest and continues to climb steadily. (There is a point here where you have to leave pushbikes.)

The track is easy to follow and mostly climbs steadily and occasionally steeply through the forest then across some scree. At the top of the scree you are getting close. There are some steep bits here in bouldery gullies, and one little scramble which can be tricky for those who can't work out where to put their hands and feet to maintain balance. Children may have to be helped - I had to "put" my children up this bit some years ago when they were big enough for the walk but small enough to lift. A bit of clambering right at the top, and you emerge on a quite small flat platform with cracks and very steep cliffs to north and east. This sits above the other peaks which are obvious and picturesque to the north, and the height according to the map is 629m. The views on a clear day are superb and worth the climb. The return walk is a retrace, but can be varied by returning around Cape Boullanger to arrive at Darlington from the coast rather than from inland.

The lower peaks of Bishop and Clerk, and Freycinet Peninsula,
seen from the summit - 26th April 2011

Maria Island - 25th to 30th April 2011

2011-05-05T07:14:00.001+10:00

Having visited Maria Island about 18 months ago and walked to the south end of the island, I thought it was time to return and do redo some of the walks at the northern end. I got a week of superb weather, and will provide some posts about the individual walks.

A note on transport: Make sure you ring the ferry companies (this one, and this one) and check exactly what times they are sailing. One of them was actually sailing at slightly different times to their advertised schedule last week. You really do need to book as early as possible to make sure they are going when you expect, and that some unexpected change isn't going to throw out your plans.

The camping area: This has changed. Following the floods which occurred before and after my last trip, the camping area was flooded significantly by water which overtopped the reservoir. They now have concerns about the safety of the reservoir, and have moved the camping ground over to where the barbecue shelter and shower block are. (Yes, you can get showers.) It's not a bad site, and is certainly more convenient for cooking under cover.

Before any trip, check out these pages at Parks and Wildlife, and give them a ring with any questions. They are very helpful. Note especially that you can't buy anything on Maria Island except a shower. You will need to take everything you need for however long you are going to stay. The rangers are really good at giving you advice about the best activities for your interests, abilities and length of stay.

The Painted Cliffs, Maria Island - 26th April 2011

Overland Track Transport

2011-04-24T20:53:00.000+10:00

Just some notes about the transport to and from the Overland Track.

When I first did this walk (2000), my wife picked me up at Lake St Clair where I'd deposited a car, and we drove around to Cradle Mountain and spent the night there with the kids. The next time (2004), I dropped the car at Lake St Clair and caught the bus round to Cradle via Queenstown, where I managed to start the track by about 3pm on the same day I'd left the car at the other end. (Walked down to Scott-Kilvert that afternoon, and there weren't any track passes required, nor anyone busying themselves too much about your precise walking plans.) I do like to have a car available at the end of the walk, as it saves all that hurrying to make sure you catch boats or buses, and you can leave clean clothes in it. Anyway, it's become more complicated, and you just can't do what I did in 2004 any more.

First I tried to get to Cradle Mountain via Queenstown. Tassielink are the bus company, but you can't do it in a day. Rather you have to stay in Queenstown or Strahan overnight, the former being cheaper, but the latter perhaps being more enjoyable if you get the right accommodation and dining in Strahan. Note that you can't always do it in two days like this either. Some days there's a whole day in between the Hobart to Strahan service and the Strahan to Launceston service. At any time of the year, the Tassielink schedule will need some careful perusal to make sure you understand which bus goes where on which day. This applied to me on my chosen days. I could get from Lake St Clair to Strahan on Thursday, but couldn't get to Cradle until Saturday. Back to the drawing board, I had to get to Launceston instead.

This can be done, but you catch a bus back to Hobart from Lake St Clair, then from Hobart to Launceston, and then after an overnight stay, through to Cradle. All seemed to be going well until the lady realised that on my chosen days Tassielink's "in-season" service would have ceased, and they didn't run a bus from Launceston to Cradle until Saturday either. Gaaaaa! She was helpful though, and put me onto McDermott's coaches, who DO run a Friday service to Cradle.

I rang them immediately, and they duly booked me on their Friday bus. The bus picked me up at the salubrious Batman Fawkner, and tripped around collecting the rest of the load from their hotels too. It arrived earlier at Cradle than the Tassielink buses do, and went direct from Launceston to Cradle without a pickup in Devonport. The bus driver was a really cheerful and helpful bloke named Kerry. The service included waiting while we got our track passes and other purchases from the visitor centre, then Kerry running us all up to Ronny Creek and getting us underway without our having to use the Cradle shuttle bus service and undergo additional inquisitions and lectures from the rangers. I think this service makes it worth trying to use McDermotts if their schedule suits.

The shuttle buses run regularly however, and allow you to travel easily from the visitor centre to Ronny Creek. Kerry warned us that you are best not to try to catch the bus from the ranger station/Lodge as they are generally full up before they get there when it's busy. It certainly looked busy there 10 days ago, the car park was pretty full.

Anyway, it was a somewhat expensive business getting to do the Overland Track, but given the weather I got, it was well worthwhile. Oh, and it didn't cost me anything like as much as all those mainlanders and overseas visitors pay. For interstate and overseas visitors, the transport arrangements are canvassed in more detail in Frank and Sue's Overland Track book. You can also find Tassielink's and McDermott's schedules online. Just be careful that you're looking at the schedule for the right season with Tassielink. Check the fine print to see if the schedule stopped applying some time ago - the one I wanted to use on 15th April ran out on the 10th, two days before I rang them but it was still on their website. This timetable appears to contain the winter Cradle service.

Overland Track - 15th to 21st April

2011-04-23T09:24:00.001+10:00

Got back on Thursday evening from the Overland Track. Third time walking it properly from the start, and had the best weather of any of those trips. Lots of photos were taken, and I've put a selection from across the days and places in here. I met Sue and her friends Mark, Deb and Anne from Geelong. Sue runs this website with her husband Frank. I've bought their Food To Go e-book, because these people ate better than everyone else, particularly me. Sue's friend Deb seems to be the chief outdoor gourmet, and has lots of wonderful ideas for cooking nice things far from home. They also put out a guide to doing the Overland Track for people who have to work out the logistics - mainly I think this would be useful for people who are not from Tasmania and are not sure what to expect in getting to Cradle Mountain and walking the Overland Track for the first time. You can buy their two books together at a good discount.

The track has been improved (read: duckboarded) in many places since I last did it (~~2003 or~~ 2004 ~~I think~~) but other bits have also deteriorated. Frog Flats to Pelion and then just before Kia-Ora seemed most obvious to me as being worse, and the ranger confirmed that both these parts have suffered over the recent high season when it was both unusually wet for summer and the track had the usual very high summer traffic.

I note that despite the best efforts of everyone, people still manage to start (and generally, safely complete) this walk without fundamental items of equipment and little understanding of what they are going to find along the way.

I hadn't seen the Bert Nicholls Hut at Windy Ridge before. This has received mixed reviews. It's large and of a somewhat more complex design than other huts. They say it's a great summer hut, but too cold and impersonal in winter. I understand original complaints about the hut involved the inability of the old Windy Ridge coal stove to heat the cavernous kitchen/dining room area. This has been replaced by a wood heater, which didn't do a bad job, on an admittedly cool but non-freezing evening. Anyway, you'd have to see it for yourself - it's quite grandiose, and the other evening did a fine job of accommodating about 25 people for dinner. I didn't try out the bedrooms as I much prefer tenting for actual sleeping.

All in all, a great walk still, and the scenery and ambience remain wonderful. I managed to climb both Cradle Mountain and Mount Ossa, but was thwarted by mist and drizzle in my desire to climb Walled Mountain in the Labyrinth - another day for that one. I came out a day early rather than sit and watch the drizzle from the Pine Valley hut, eating the remains of my non-gourmet bushwalking diet.

Cape Pillar - 7th-9th April 2011

2011-04-10T21:37:00.008+10:00

Had beautiful weather for a three-day trip to Cape Pillar. This made for a much more leisurely and enjoyable trip than the two days I did last time. On my way out a young lady passed me with a day pack, and asked me if I thought she would get good views. Hope she enjoyed her brief stay somewhere near the end of the cape.

Day One - Walked in, with an early start. Weather quite cool, and arrived at lunch time at Perdition Ponds. Water as bad as last time, maybe a little worse, but vaguely drinkable. It could do with some salty energy drink mixed into it to make it better. Lunchtime Creek further back on the track had been flowing energetically, and if there wasn't a big hill after it I'd probably carry a few litres of that water in just for drinking. Camping at Perdition allows you to find spectacular views of Tasman Island and The Blade with only a few minutes walk, so is preferable to camping further back along the track. Apparently there are campsites at The Oasis, about another 25 minutes along the cape, but they are becoming overgrown. After a very pleasant nap, I was joined by a couple from Hobart. This being Tasmania, I had previously worked with the lady, and we had mutual acquaintances. With time to spare, I walked a fair way towards the Blade, but turned back and took photos of the cape in the sunset from one of the superb clifftop viewpoints.

Day Two - Got up early and took sunrise photos, thus fully justifying my decision to stay at Perdition rather than Lunchtime Creek... Anyway, later, after breakfast, I headed out to the end of the cape. Views from The Blade are superb, although the airy end point may not be for everyone. The big boulder on the end must fall off one day. Last trip, I ran out of time and obvious track, and never got to the lookout where Cathedral Rock is visible. This time, I headed past where the track seemed to finish, and the track became obvious again after about 10 metres. Good views were had of both Cathedral Rock and Rob Pennicott's tour boat in The Chasm below. The position above The Chasm from this final lookout is very impressively vertical. I understand you can clamber down to Cathedral Rock from near there. If you view it on Google Maps/Earth there seems to be a clear way down through the cliffs. However, I estimate the average slope is about 45 degrees, so it would be an unpleasant scrub-clamber. Day two ended with increasing smoke, thanks Forestry.

Day Three - Weather change coming, but only evident in a slightly stronger breeze and the actual presence of a few skimpy clouds. Walked out after packing up in a leisurely way. The track is in general quite enjoyable. The forested parts and the open plains are great. Hurricane Heath continues to deteriorate and presents the only (short) bog of the trip. If they manage to build the Three-Capes Walk, I expect they'll fix this, as otherwise it will become a big wide mud-wallow as hundreds of international tourists avoid the muddy water. The forest on the final descent to Fortescue Bay is very pretty, much better than the forest along the old superseded track.

Hartz Peak - 5th April 2011

2011-04-05T17:14:00.004+10:00

Cool walk to Hartz Peak today, although when the sun was out it had a good deal of warmth in it. Relaxing walk with only a few others about.

Mount Wellington - 4th April 2011

2011-04-04T17:09:00.003+10:00

Summit bushwalkers shelter - Mount Wellington.

Note: Blog not very up to date. I will start posting from today, as well as catch up some old ones that I haven't done. Nice walk today, if occasionally drizzly, on Mount Wellington. Up the Pinnacle and Zig Zag Tracks to the summit, then returning to The Springs via the Panorama and Organ Pipes Tracks. I have eight weeks of walking coming up! There were a few fungi about here and there too.

South Cape Bay - 13th and 14th March 2011

2011-03-14T21:25:00.000+11:00

Had a very enjoyable overnight walk to South Cape Bay on the March long weekend. Camped at Lion Rock, just on the flat sandy bit at the bottom of the stairs up to the toilet(s). This is a great spot, as long as the weather is calm. I imagine it could be more problematic in a storm. The first day was a little damp and breezy in places, but hey, this dubious summer/autumn is better than the weather anywhere else in Australia! The sunset was OK, the clouds quite attractive. Sunrise was a bit flat, but the sun came out a little later and made for a few other nice photos. Overall, very relaxing.

Canoe Bay - 19th December 2010

2010-12-19T18:34:00.002+11:00

Had a short walk around the coast to Canoe Bay. The dead seal at the northern end of Fortescue Bay beach was extremely pongy. Care is required on this walk to avoid nettles. I didn't. There was also a small child who had probably touched one. Very painful things.

Cape Hauy - 18th December 2010

2010-12-18T08:09:00.005+11:00

Dubious weather forecasts often indicated that somewhere eastwards might be best for s dry-ish walk. Another walk was taken to Cape Hauy, which always has those spectacular cliffs. The forest has been continually changing as spring flowers give way to early summer flowers. These are the Broadleaf Triggerplant, Stylidium armeria.

The Monument was first climbed by a Climbers' Club of Tasmania group in 1970. As I have noted before, Peter McHugh (where in the world is Mr McHugh these days?) and Mendelt Tillema were involved. I found the notes here. Quoting from that page:

This large sea-stack is just off to the south of Cape Hauy (clearly visible from the track) was first climbed in 1970 by a Climbers' Club of Tasmania group. This sea-stack is much less popular than the others in the area, perhaps due to the fact that it is not as dramatic looking and is only about 50m high. However, since it is about 100m off shore, it is not any less of an mission to reach the top. Indeed, the tale of the first ascent is yet another grand CCT epic spread over a few attempts.

Prior to the successful attempt, Mendelt Tillema had already swam out to the stack, though his companion (Peter McHugh), who planned to follow in a rubber dingy was not able to make it out to the stack due to the swell. Mendelt swam back to shore and the attempt was aborted. The next time, Mendelt again swam (trailing a rope) to the prominent ledge on the NE corner of the stack. Mike Emery and Ray Lassman tied in the middle of the rope and followed, while Col Hocking held the other end and waited on the mainland should things get messy. McHugh contributed to proceedings by tumbling down the cliff as the start of the day, leaving blood stained rocks as markers for the path to the sea.

From the ledge, the team took the prominent chimney in the corner. This was an 80ft (or 25m) pitch at a grade of "VDiff" (now considered about grade 12-ish), and then a scramble to the top. Upon erecting a cairn they donated some green tights for a flag, though it appears these have long since blown away.

Pipeline Track Flag Iris (Diplarrena moraea)

2010-12-05T21:14:00.000+11:00

Had a few walks on the Pipeline Track when opportunities presented. This Flag Iris (Diplarrena moraea) cooperated by staying still for the right instant of time.

Cape Raoul - 20th November 2010

2010-11-20T18:49:00.001+11:00

The crew wanted another walk, probably to make up for the rainy walk to Cape Hauy. That one where we went in search of somewhere less wet than Mount Wellington, but we might have found somewhere even wetter. Anyway, that sorted the men from the boys, or at least the men from the whingers.

Cape Raoul is a terrific walk, with superb cliff views. The best is probably from the 400m-high point just before reaching the top of Mount Raoul. The sea is so far away.

Just to note, at the end of Cape Raoul, you need to go to both lookouts, so take bothe left and right fork. The track comes to a very sudden and precipitous end along the left fork. (It's not much better along the right fork, but you'd have to work harder at falling off accidentally.) If you take children here, make sure they're either with you or sensible enough to self-preserve.

Fossil Cove - 13th November 2010

2010-11-13T18:35:00.003+11:00

Cliffs at Fossil Cove.

This is a nice short walk between Blackmans Bay and Tinderbox. This is one of the walks identified by the Kingborough Council, and details can be found here. There's a rock arch and a rock platform absolutely crammed with fossils.

South Cape Bay - 7th November 2010

2010-11-07T21:00:00.000+11:00

Had a nice walk to South Cape Bay. This fellow was happily munching ants along the track and was quite unconcerned about me, at least until the camera's flash became annoying.

Lots of interesting flotsam on the beach, including this sponge.

Stormy weather had washed up large mounds of kelp, which makes for interesting foregrounds in photos at least.

I wondered about harvesting some pieces to see if I could make some of those lovely water-carriers and other items the Aboriginal ladies make. Then of course I remembered it's a national park...

There were quite a lot of dead shearwaters around. I've also seen significant numbers on Fortescue Bay Beach.

Stormy weather had altered the beach quite a lot. There was lots of exposed rock and sand had been stripped from most parts of the beach.

The Tasmanian Laurels (Anopterus glandulosus) were in flower along the track, noticeably in the old sand dunes behind the beach.

Hartz Peak and Mount Snowy - 6th November 2010

2010-11-06T20:23:00.000+11:00

This walk connects Hartz Peak and Mount Snowy south of the main peak, with some off-track and route walking. It provides great views while traversing along the ridge. Emily and Arthur Tarns are features of the return walk. The walk starts with a standard ascent of Hartz Peak. It is advisable to carry extra water, as you are unlikely to find any until descending to Emily Tarn after the ascent of Mount Snowy.

The route then heads along the ridge to the south. The first part of the ridge consists of buttresses, and you need to descend to the right/west to boulder-hop around their lower ends. If tempted to climb back to the ridgeline, you'll get a good view and there are some good cliffs to look down, but you need to get past a good few buttresses before the ridge-top is easily navigated. There is no need to do any rockclimbing or even actual scrambling at any point going in either direction. If you find that you need to, you've missed the easiest way and can either proceed if comfortable, or go back a bit and find an easier way. Eventually the ridge starts to drop steeply towards the Hartz/Snowy saddle. There is a little scrub here and you may have to wade through some scoparia, but it's pretty easy to tell where you're going. Descend to the saddle. Note that from this point you can walk along the south ridge to Adamsons Peak. I gather it's a bit dry and scrubby, and it would be best to get some directions from someone who knows the best way.

From the saddle there is a cairned route up Mount Snowy. It's occasionally indistinct, but basically head for the big scree patch and there are cairns up the middle of it. You'll know when you're at the top - it's the highest bit.... Good views of Hartz Peak from here, as well as the ranges to the south. Descend again to the saddle.

From the saddle there's a cairned route which drops off to the right/north and heads for Emily Tarn. This passes through alpine shrubberies which can be a little moist underfoot at times. The way is also occasionally indistinct. In clear weather you can see Emily Tarn though. (Maybe when it's foggy, people who haven't done this walk before might be advised to leave it for another day actually.) Emily Tarn is lovely, with the cliffs and crags of Hartz Peak ringed above it, and with a great view of Mount Snowy. There are good spots to put up a tent here, but please don't take lots of people there, it's pretty fragile. Oh, and there aren't LOTS of tent sites, certainly not together.

The return track continues around the right of the tarn and then climbs to a cushion-plant lawn in a tiny saddle between Emily and Arthur Tarns. This bit is definitely moist underfoot, and is becoming a little degraded. The track descends slightly to Arthur Tarn which sits perched above a steep drop and can be very visually attractive. Below Arthur Tarn the track drops down the outlet creek, and winds down a little before entering the creek bed which it follows for a couple of hundred metres. You need some navigational smarts below here, keeping a lookout for cairns and tags. The track then undulates across the plateau to return to Ladies Tarn. As a useful guide in clag, it would be a good idea to have marked Ladies Tarn in your GPS to give you something to aim at. The track has some apparent false leads in a couple of places. If the track peters out, backtrack a little and cast about for another route. This plateau walk can be wet to very wet underfoot, and will boots will probably be most comfortable. The track emerges just above Ladies Tarn, and you turn right to retrace the walk to its beginning.

Mount Wellington - 30th October 2010

2010-10-30T15:46:00.000+11:00

I've left a lot of walks un-noted and photos unpublished. Trying to catch up now. This was a nice walk up the Zig-Zag track, with some botanical photography thrown in.

Kerosene Bush, Ozothamnus ledifolius - Photo here also.

Hartz Peak - 24th October 2010

2010-10-27T20:56:00.005+11:00

Very nice day for a quick climb up Hartz Peak, with a cool breeze and continual sun.

Mount Wellington - 21st October 2010

2010-10-21T19:27:00.004+11:00

Show-Day weather was superb today, so to Mount Wellington. Had a nice walk up the Icehouse Track and across the plateau to the summit. Lots of people at the summit trying to find snow to throw at each other. They seemed like they'd probably prefer to be at the show, and I wondered why they weren't. Anyway, not a peaceful time at the top, but nice to sit on the stone benches halfway down the Zigzag Track.

Dauntless Point (Mount Brown/Crescent Bay) - 10th October 2010

2010-10-11T21:39:00.014+11:00

I've been impressed with Dauntless Point, as seen from the southwestern cliff on Mount Brown. The point sits to the west of Mount Brown, south of Port Arthur. This walk starts at Remarkable Cave, and follows the same track as the Mount Brown and Crescent Bay walk(s). Description of that walk here. Walking to Dauntless Point didn't look too hard, so this was the aim. The point itself has a pretty impressive cliff, maybe 100m high, and sits below the cliff of Mount Brown, which is about 170m. You can sit right on the highest point of the Mount Brown cliff and look down to the sea - it seems close to vertical from the top, but it's always hard to tell whether a cliff really is vertical from above - for me anyway.

Walking to Dauntless Point involves climbing to about the 100m level up the normal Mount Brown track (I went a bit higher actually) and then sidling back on steep sloping rock, boulders and scrub to the northwest and then west. There's a sort of saddle between Mount Brown and Dauntless Point, which drops very steeply (and dangerously, with loose pebbles and gravel) into a gulch to the south. I think Dauntless Point could be approached from the north directly, but there's a fair bit of woody scrub, and there may or may not be a clear path. Sidling round Mount Brown wasn't too hard. From the saddle, you climb easily onto the highest point and then beyond, with occasional pushes through bits of scrub, and a couple of points where the track is very close to the impressive cliff. With the wind blowing it was interesting, but not too problematic. I think those who don't like heights would have problems, as the cliff falls away in a clearly visible slope from several spots. The views of the cliff on Mount Brown are superb. There comes a point where the scrub thickens and the slope steepens significantly, and I didn't go all the way out to the end of the point. Maybe next time.

This cliff on Mount Brown's southwestern side is about 170m tall. The picture above doesn't really do it justice, but a tall person would be 1/85th of the height of the cliff. You can stand on the highest point visible in this picture, and would be visible in a picture like this,but very tiny. The cliff appears to slope outwards from that highest point, but is then basically massively undercut. There is a big sea cave at the base of the cliff, and the whole cliff sweeps inwards to it. The (guessed) 4m swells were making a good show as they rushed inwards. The dynamics of the water rebounding from the cave suggested that it is reasonably deep. Mount Brown must one day collapse at this point - and indeed to cut the cliff as it is already there must have been significant collapses in the past. Anyway, the view is pretty impressive.

Note: there is no marked track to Dauntless Point, there are no safety features or warning signs, and the whole area has numerous huge cliffs which would be fatal if toppled off. Use this area at your own risk. Keep children close.

Cape Hauy - 9th October 2010

2010-10-09T21:00:00.000+11:00

I went back to Cape Hauy in better weather, and among other things clambered down at the end of the cape a fair way. This provides a good view of the Candlestick, showing the size of it very clearly.

The forest was full of flowers, very pretty.

Hartz Plateau - 2nd October 2010

2010-10-06T20:04:00.001+11:00

With the need to unexpectedly spend a second Saturday afternoon watching football, I was keen to take some exercise in the fresh air on Saturday morning. The day looked clear and sunny, so I headed up to Hartz with the hope that the snow would be light enough that I could get to the top and back and then get home in time to see the Mighty Pies thrash St Kilda. The snow was a little deeper than I'd hoped in many places and required care, but it wasn't too bad - occasionally knee-deep, usually ankle- to shin-deep. If I'd got there an hour earlier, I'd have confidently set off for the top. I stopped at Ladies Tarn, from where the deep snow on the slopes above was clearly visible. I'm not very good at low-friction activities, so I'm slower than some in the snow. Also decided my gaiters absolutely need throwing out and replacing. However, with the sun out and only light breezes it was very nice. Two groups arrived as I was heading off, and I reckon they probably went to the top.

Fungi at Fortescue Bay

2010-09-20T20:57:00.004+10:00

Fortescue Bay Photos

2010-09-20T20:53:00.004+10:00

Cape Hauy - 18th September 2010

2010-09-19T13:13:00.005+10:00

This walk was supposed to be up Mount Wellington, and six of us turned up. By popular choice, we decided to avoid the forecast showers, and overcrowding by Hobartians wanting to play in the snow, and head for the peninsula. The walk was a little moist at times - on the return we had some actual soaking rain - but I found it enjoyable. The views were improved by occasional bursts of sunshine, dramatic mist and squalls, and quite wild seas generated by the "Australia-Sized" storm which has passed by and is now ravaging New Zealand. More photos at Picasa.

Fortescue Bay - Dolomieu Cliffs - 12th September 2010

2010-09-19T12:25:00.008+10:00

I haven't done this walk for about 20 years. It's normally labelled as Canoe Bay and Bivouac Bay, which are passed along the way, but the aim should be to walk on beyond Bivouac Bay and up onto the cliffs just north of Dolomieu Point, which give grandstand views of the rocks at Thumbs Point and Cape Hauy.

The walk starts at the Fortescue Bay carpark, and heads north along the beach. The creek flowing from Fortescue Lagoon has been flowing strongly with recent rain, and may need to be waded. (On the return it was nearly narrow enough to jump given the lower tide.) At the north end of the beach, the track climbs a little into the forest. The walking is easy and pleasant, and the track meanders through the forest for a while before descending to Canoe Bay. Here a sunken steel boat now serves as a large perch for cormorants, but is said to have been a breakwater for fish processing works which formerly operated here. A very rough 4WD track (Canoe Bay Track on the 1:25,000 map) intersects the walking track just before it arrives at Canoe Bay. This track apparently heads off uphill and joins Fortescue Road.

The track continues beyond Canoe Bay, crossing the substantial creek on a good suspension bridge, and contouring around the north side of Canoe Bay. The track then climbs about 110m quite steeply over the headland and descending again to Bivouac Bay. Here there is a toilet and camping area, with water available from the creek - apparently permanent.

The track then continues around the head of the bay across the creek, and climbs 100m to cross Dolomieu Point and emerge on the cliffs just north of the point. There are several good lunch spots within a few minutes of the top of the hill where you can sit on flat rock at the edge of the cliff with spectacular views. This climb at the end is very well worth it.

Clydes Island - 11th September 2010

2010-09-19T11:43:00.004+10:00

The tide was very low when I visited the Tesselated Pavement at Eaglehawk Neck last weekend, and a walk out to Clydes Island just northwards along the bay looked like a good idea. The sea was very calm, and the way along the edge of the bay below the cliffs was an easy walk. The rocks are interesting, and the walk out there gives a different perspective on Pirates Bay. This short walk would be difficult at high tide, and obviously dangerous, if perhaps spectacular, in rough seas. More photos at Picasa.

Crescent Bay and Mount Brown - 15th August 2010

2010-08-25T19:44:00.008+10:00

To round out the Tasman Peninsula weekend, I did Mount Brown and then walked on to Cresecent Bay. See previous exploits, which include a map. The cliff on the south-western side of Mount Brown remains a "high"light. The shape of the top of the cliff means people like me with borderline height-tolerance can securely sit with a leg, or even two, dangling over this 170+m cliff without feeling insecure. It gives a great vertical view to the sea, and back towards Remarkable Cave across Dauntless Point. Mind you, this is where I misplaced Phil for a few slightly concerning minutes on a walk a while back. The photo here is of Cape Pillar from the Mount Brown trig, with The Blade in clear view protruding at the right. Mount Brown affords great views of both Cape Pillar and Cape Raoul, along with their related topography, as well as of the whole of Port Arthur.

Crescent Bay is superb, although not necessarily a nice safe swimming beach. The waves break beautifully at times, but the beach falls away quite steeply. Looks good for fishing. In the middle of the beach is this rocky outcrop, with a big dune that drops steeply behind it. The rocky outcrop looked to me like a metamorphosed mudstone or similar, which shows the obvious signs of salt water weathering. It's really quite interesting. David Leaman confirms in "Step into History in Tasmanian Reserves" some of my inexpert assessment, but adds a lot more information.

This is Mount Brown as seen from the northern end of Crescent Bay. The cliff is on the far side. Crescent Bay's most notable feature is its tall dunes. There were people sliding down the dune in the middle of the beach on sandboards and other items. I'll do a blog about sand dunes sometime soon, but they didn't seem concerned about their use of the dune in this way. Other people do the same down the dunes at the northern end at times too. I don't know really, but I do know the dunes at Crescent Bay have been there for 20 years, and don't seem to have diminished. Perhaps the wind restores them. I see there are some track notes for this walk here.

Cape Hauy - 14th August 2010

2010-08-24T21:24:00.006+10:00

Had a trip down to the Tasman Peninsula and took the opportunity to wander out to Cape Hauy on Day One. This is a good walk, and I've put it up on here before (here and here). The starting point is Fortescue Bay, and the track is easy to follow. The walk undulates quite a lot, and although no individual hill is more than medium-sized it's a good bit of exercise after you've climbed and descended a few times. Views are great and the cliffs spectacular, although the light was a bit flat the other day for photography.

The sidetrack to the Monument Lookout (on the way to Mount Fortescue) is well worth the short diversion, and provides a very airy view of the bay stretching south to Cape Pillar. Note that there are many opportunities for falling off cliffs along this track, so younger members of the party should be supervised appropriately. In particular, the flat spot at the end of the walk is basically surrounded on three sides by 120m cliffs sheer to the sea, which makes a great place for lunch but not for wandering about carelessly. The Candlestick and Totem Pole, both goals for climbers, are located at Cape Hauy, and while they are visible from the top of the Cape, better views are available by descending steeply (and very carefully) to the northeast along obvious pads and tracks along the edge of the cliffs towards the sea.

Cape Hauy, the Lanterns, the Candlestick and the Totem Pole are all visible from the lookout above Pirates Bay. This is reached by turning left along the old highway before commencing the steep descent on the new highway towards Eaglehawk Neck. The views across the bay are worth the diversion.

Haywoods Track, Mount Wellington - 7th August 2010

2010-08-24T21:00:00.008+10:00

I've done this track a few times, but never been sure what its name was. If you don't know where the track is it's easy to walk past it without noticing. Peter Franklin has put it up on sharemyroutes, but I only found this out after I'd deliberately taken my new GPS up it so I could plot it on the map. This was also where I found out what the track's name is.

Anyway, if you walk along the Organ Pipes Track from the chalet towards The Springs, after a few minutes walk there is a track off to the right. It's marked vaguely with some sort-of piled rocks next to a tree. A red mark on a rock is just visible if you look in the right place. The track heads across boulders and then climbs quite steeply and roughly up the hill to near the pinnacle, emerging next to the visitor shelter with the skate ramp for a roof. From there you can take any route back down which takes your fancy.

This paraglider seemed quite brave, launching across a big boulder field with some initial hesitations, but then swinging out to disappear beyond the Organ Pipes. Didn't see them again after that, but it looked like quite a ride.

Hartz Peak - 17th and 19th July 2010

2010-07-24T21:22:00.003+10:00

Had a couple of walks up Hartz Peak last weekend, actually hoping for good photographic light, sun on snow etc. It wasn't too bad, but while Huonville and elsewhere had pretty good weather, it was cold, windy and often cloudy at Hartz. Nevertheless, it was nice to wander about, and the snow and ice was quite attractive.

There were some people out in the most horribly innappropriate clothing. They only went to Lake Esperance, and I think they found it rather uncomfortable. The bald man with no hat in the icy and occasionally wet wind was obviously uncomfortable. His daughter (well, I hope she was his daughter) was in fashionable, around-town gear. They were a bit uncommunicative when I passed them on the track.

Here are a few photos from the weekend at Picasa.

Mount Picton from Hartz Peak

2010-07-13T21:25:00.005+10:00

Just thought I'd post this photo. Worked for me.

Hartz Peak - 26th June 2010

2010-06-27T20:54:00.008+10:00

The BoM provided their usual pessimism-laden forecast. The weather station at the Hartz Mountains was tending to bear this out early on, but the sun came out in Huonville. The weather observations showed slow improvement, so after an early lunch I headed up there. It was chilly but dry with a cold breeze, and the sun came in and out making for a pleasant walk. Hat and gloves were a must though, and after pottering about on the summit and nearby taking photos, my hands were cold enough to need the second pair of gloves. Later I would find that the highest recorded "apparent" temperature for the Keoghs Pimple weather station was around -5.5 Deg C. No idea what it would have been in the strong breeze blowing from the west high up on the peak. Nice views though, with a bit of ice and snow making for interesting surroundings.

The views from Hartz Peak are really very impressive. With a bit of cloud and rain about, Saturday wasn't the clearest, but the southern ranges were quite obvious. Here are views from Mount La Perouse, through Pindars peak, Mounts Wylly and Victoria Cross , Precipitous Bluff and the Ironbound Range. This last is the largest obstacle along the South Coast Track, and can be seen in this photo as the range in the far (and hazy) distance to the right of centre with the pyramid on its top. The south coast track crosses this range, climbing most of the way to the top.

Mount Picton lies across the Picton River valley from Hartz. In this valley forestry operations continue, most especially below Hartz on the western slopes where they cannot be seen from this vantage point. Some of the forests being harvested were excised from the national park. My view is that these forests should not be harvested, but instead amalgamated into the surrounding national park and World Heritage Area to complete the contiguous protection of the upper Huon catchment areas. These forests are worth more protected and standing than mulched up for export to Asia as woodchips. The good thing about the weather on Saturday was that it concealed the forestry scars high on the slopes of Mount Picton, usually visible from here. This view is of Mount Picton across Hartz Lake.

Fungi on the North West Bay River Track

2010-06-18T21:01:00.006+10:00

Found quite a few interesting fungi on this track today, some of them new to me. See all the photos at Picasa.

Mount Wellington - 17th June 2010

2010-06-17T21:08:00.009+10:00

Had a nice walk today on the front of Mount Wellington after it finished being rainy. It was very chilly out of the sun, but warm enough if you could find a sunny spot. It really was a lovely winter day in Hobart once the rain cleared.

Found this fungi. I'm working on an identification, could be Aleuria rhenana.

Swan blogs have moved

2010-06-06T09:47:00.003+10:00

The swans, including Scooter, will now appear on the Huon Valley Nature Blog. If you're following Scooter, there's a new post there today. I won't be alerting again from this blog.

New Blog

2010-05-29T23:38:00.002+10:00

I've set up a new blog to take all the Huon Valley Nature items, and in general separate them from the bushwalking or "bush" items. Maybe I also need a fungi blog? Dunno, never mind. Here's the new blog.

Mount Wellington Fungi

2010-05-26T20:34:00.007+10:00

Found quite a few fungi last Saturday. Could have spent 12 hours messing about, but I think we need a few days of rain to really bring them out, without any severe frosts. I had a good walk around the lower slopes, including Myrtle Gully, where there are always a good range of fungi types. The mountain itself was seemingly covered in frost, maybe snow at higher levels. There were solidly frozen puddles at The Springs carpark anyway. See the Photos on Picasa.

I've been using the Nikon DSLR (D90) to take fungi photos. The depth of field is even more difficult than with the old Panasonic (DMC-FZ50). In addition, the Panasonic had a flip-out screen, and in fact the Panasonic's fixed lens was easier to manually focus than the cheap kit lenses I have on the Nikon. Nevertheless, some of the photos came out quite well. I have a mirror for focusing on the LCD screen from above. The D90, unlike earlier DSLRs has Live-View (LV). This means the mirror will flip up and allow the sensor to read the light in real time like a P&S camera. For this sort of photography, this is invaluable, despite some semi-amateur eejits on forums deriding the LV feature. The flip-out screen will also come to be seen as very useful, at least for some applications. Many of the photos were taken using the camera mounted upside-down on my big Manfrotto tripod. This was much easier than trying to balance the camera on bags and things at ground level, and then point it in the right direction. Having it upside down made for an interesting logic puzzle though, especially when using buttons and dials on the front of the camera - which way do I dial the wheel?

New cygnets at Franklin...?!

2010-05-23T21:31:00.004+10:00

I'm not sure this is the right time of year for new cygnets, but this family seemed quite cheerful today. I have a suspicion that these adults are the same ones that raised the six cygnets I've been following for a few months. I'll see if I can match the markings on their beaks - these seem to have some individuality that might mark individual swans. Anyway, I was surprised to see new cygnets so close to winter - the last lot appeared just as summer started.

Recent Photos of Scooter and family

2010-05-23T20:26:00.004+10:00

Scooter is still paddling about the Huon River near Franklin. I've seen him a few times recently, and got a few photos. He's often on his own when I see him, but sometimes with up to five others of his family. I've only seen six swans together recently, and I'm not sure which six they are, as most of them are adult-sized, or almost adult-sized. See the next post however, there are new cygnets about.

Quick Book Review - Created from Chaos

2010-05-23T19:39:00.007+10:00

A very interesting book has appeared, Created From Chaos - a geological trail of 100 sites in Tasmania, by Peter Manchester. This book provides a wealth of information about 100 sites of geological interest near roads in Tasmania. It uses photos, diagrams and text to explain the geological history of Tasmania. Each site is easily findable and close enough to a road that most people will be able to go and see what Peter is talking about. I found it hard to put down, as I have visited many of the places included. I found the book in Fullers in Collins Street, Hobart. Look for the distinctive cover (see photo) on the Tasmanian display just to the right inside the front door.

The book is split geographically, providing a tour of Tasmania starting in Launceston (where Peter lives), proceeding to the northeast, east coast, south, central highlands, northwest, west coast and the Bass Strait islands. Many of the locations will be quite familiar to those who have driven around Tasmania, and anyone with an interest in the natural world around them will find a site near them which Peter illuminates more clearly - unless, I suppose, you are in fact a geologist already.

The book has a few drawbacks which you need to accept prior to the expenditure of $60.00 on this paperback, and these appear to arise from being self-published and probably without professional editing (Peter says he did the formatting, production etc). In my opinion, the book could have done with a very thorough edit. It has spelling, grammar, punctuation and layout mistakes. It uses inconsistent typographical conventions, and looks overall like a slightly dodgy Word document. The emphasising of text is done a wide variety of ways, for example, and differing font sizes are sometimes inexplicable. The photos are sometimes too small for sufficient clarity, and could have been made larger if the text had been made a little smaller and was better laid out. Most of the photos however, clearly show what is intended, even if I would have preferred them to be a little larger. A small number of photos do appear to have had very significant changes made to their aspect ratio, which is unacceptable in a documentary setting. In effect, I am unsure which others might have been altered, presumably accidentally, which means I am somewhat uncertain about the actual appearance of some physical features. Page layout, photo and diagram size and placing, and the spacing of text away from images is very inconsistent, and is the sort of thing that happens in my own Word documents until I carefully make sure it is correct. You may also find the writing style a little strange, but it is sort of pleasantly conversational - I found it a bit like David Leaman on steroids.

Despite these drawbacks, the book is very useful, and I'm glad Peter published it. However, $60.00 for a solid paperback should buy a little more quality and consistency in presentation than this, and maybe we can hope for that if a second edition is produced. Overall it represents a huge amount of knowledge and effort now available for people to use in viewing the Tasmanian landscape and learning more about its natural history. Despite my disappointment with the book's production values, the information it contains is superb.

Collins Cap - 15th May 2010

2010-05-22T17:41:00.009+10:00

Last Saturday was cool and cloudy. I was thinking of climbing Collins Bonnet, but really set off from home a little late. I hadn't ever climbed Collins Cap before, so this looked like an enjoyable alternative. I'd probably have had time to get back from Collins Bonnet anyway, but it was getting dim in the forest when I returned down the hill. This walk is about an hour shorter than the Collins Bonnet Walk.

Walk Description
Drive to Myrtle Forest near Collinsvale, and park in the carpark. The walk starts along a roadway which becomes a walking track beyond a picnic shelter. The track climbs steadily and steeply until a marked intersection is reached around 30-40 minutes from the start of the walk. The right hand track heads west, steeply uphill towards Collins Cap. It crosses a 4WD track, and then emerges very soon on another one. The Collins Cap track is marked across the second 4WD track. This heads up the flank of Collins Cap. Sections are steep, and some parts are quite rough. The track is easy to follow, despite the warning sign at the second 4WD track suggesting otherwise. At the summit, a short steep climb onto the pinnacle completes the ascent. There are good views of Collins Bonnet, Trestle Mountain and Mount Marian, as well as more distant views to New Norfolk, Mount Dromedary and the Derwent Valley.

Last Saturday there was a lazy cold breeze, and views were curtailed a little by cloud and distant rain. A nice big mug of hot soup provided by the Pocket Rocket at the summit was just the ticket. The normal return is a retrace. However from the lower 4WD track, Collins Bonnet or the other more westerly peaks in the Wellington Range can be accessed. With a longer day available, climbing both Collins Cap and Collins Bonnet would make a good day. Leeches live in the forest, and this is a place where I have acquired them more reliably than elsewhere in the past. None on this occasion.

View Collins Bonnet from Myrtle Forest in a larger map

Mount Wellington - 8th May 2010

2010-05-09T08:16:00.009+10:00

Had an enjoyable, if cool and breezy walk on Mount Wellington yesterday. Up the Ice House Track and across the summit plateau, then returning via the Panorama, Organ Pipes and Pinnacle Tracks. Good views at times through the mist. The changing light and cloud certainly made for dramatic views.

These are remains of the upper ice house. Earlier posts on icehouses contain more photos and information. Also, link to a small album on Picasa.

Hartz Peak - 1st May 2010

2010-05-04T21:03:00.006+10:00

Ian Cartmel had some visitors from his Slimfit Group in Frankston who were looking for some exercise. He chose Hartz Peak for them, and invited some locals to join them. A good walk ensued. Some cold breezes cooled the party on the summit and in the early part of the descent. The views were Ok but not as clear as they are at times. Phil "entertained" us with some old jokes at the summit, then proceeded to jog down most of the mountain. Not bad for a bloke of his seniority. But crikey Phil, the hat's appalling. Looks like something from Braveheart, or maybe When The Boat Comes In...

If you Slimfit blokes get sent a link to this, you can see some other photos around Hartz Peak here. Rollover for explanations of the photos.

Mount Wellington - 24th April 2010

2010-05-04T20:53:00.004+10:00

Good walk up Mount Wellington via The Springs, and Pinnacle and Zig-Zag Tracks. Cold breeze on the summit plateau, and the main benefits were good exercise, fresh air and occasional good views. The squally showers were bracing, but they did provide the right conditions for rainbows in the view.

Hartz Peak - 5th April 2010

2010-05-04T20:18:00.007+10:00

Had a cool walk to Hartz Peak over Easter. The Mountain Rocket (Bellendena montana) had entered its red fruit phase.

The mountain tops were mainly shrouded in cloud, but it did have some gaps which provided some views to the Picton Valley, Mount Picton and even Precipitous Bluff and the Ironbounds very briefly.

The lack of views at any great distance meant I tended to look more downwards for photography subjects. Here is some lichen on dolerite.

The later afternoon was de-hanced by several of those now notorious Easter Forestry burns. These burns resulted in days of smoke pollution hanging around the Huon Valley from Mountain River to Southport. Idiots!

South Cape Bay - 3rd and 6th April 2010

2010-05-03T21:09:00.013+10:00

Walked out to South Cape Bay a couple of times, mainly because the first walk was quite rainy and squally, and I wanted to photograph tiny baby bluebottles which had been on the beach the first time and were difficult to photograph due to the wind, rain and state of the tide. ie. The waves were trying to wash over me and the camera when I crouched down to photograph them, and the wind was blowing the rain sideways. There are enough other descriptions of the South Cape Bay walk (for example here) that I won't dwell on it here.

There were tens of thousands of these tiny bluebottles on the beach the first time I walked there. probably the best place for them one part of me thinks, nasty little things. However, they must have some sensible ecological role, so I suppose we have to put up with them. These little things were maybe up to a centimetre across and washed in their thousands to around the limit of the waves as I walked along the beach. When I returned a few days later, they were gone.

The waves were quite large on both visits, making quite an impressive sight across the width of the bay at times. I didn't see anyone surfing, but there were some people arriving with surfboards as I left the first time.

This kelp bed made an interesting image with Lion Rock behind. However, the waves were sweeping a long way up the beach and then receding around 75 metres. This kelp was at the far seaward limit of the movement of the water, so I had only seconds to get this shot before the sea returned. It would have been thigh-deep or more here immediately after I got this shot.

Lion Rock, with convenient foreground driftwood.

I thought this little boulder was interesting - pink granite on this beach dominated by dolerite and sedimentary rocks. There must be some granite somewhere then surely. Just not sure where. I don't see any obviously on the geological map I have, but it's a very small scale map. Maybe some surfer carried it here from Coles Bay...

Fishers Point - 2nd April 2010

2010-05-02T22:01:00.010+10:00

Just now need to update the blog with a few walks from Easter onwards. Been a bit busy to do the obligatory photo processing and typing. Firstly a walk to Fishers Point on Good Friday afternoon. The weather was pretty ordinary. This walk starts at Cockle Creek, right by the whale statue, and is a nice easy and flat walk for days when you don't have much time, the weather is a bit off, or you just don't want to walk 16 kms to South Cape Bay and back. It's good for the kids and older people too, and you don't have to go all the way to enjoy the scenery and the beaches.

The walk heads east and north east along the southern coast of Recherche Bay. The beaches are quite sheltered, and afford views of the Southern Ranges. The track is mainly along the beaches, with short trips into the scrub. Towards the end there's a longer section across the headland for a few minutes which emerges just west of Fishers Point.

There are some ruins close to the point. The building was originally the Fishers Point Pilot Station, built in 1843 and designed by colonial architect W. P. Kay, who also designed Government House. The building was also used as a pub in the 1850s, when the local population was huge. There were actually two pubs at Fishers Point, both called the Sawyers Arms. Weird. The sign says you shouldn't touch the brickwork, as this will aid conservation. I must say this instruction wasn't evident to me before I checked it out this visit, and I may have broken the rule... I think they could do with a sign by the ruins if they want people to avoid touching the bricks.

Fishers Point itself has views from northeast through southeast, and extensive tidepools on the rocks which are worth exploring when the tide is right.

Scooter update 3

2010-04-21T21:50:00.002+10:00

Scooter is still floating and flapping. He's got a few functional and health challenges, but looking at his wing-flapping, see below, maybe he'll make a go of it. Landing might be even worse than trying to fly if he ever gets of the water...
His foot is badly damaged, and you can see the deterioration here. I suppose it might just fall off sometime. At the bottom, one of his parents shows us just how serious it is being responsible for six children, including one with a disability and a poor attitude.

Scooter update 2

2010-04-21T21:48:00.001+10:00

Scooter update 1

2010-04-21T21:35:00.000+10:00

Swan Family

2010-03-13T19:28:00.003+11:00

Commercial break

2010-03-09T21:50:00.002+11:00

I've started to post some photos on RedBubble, where they can be purchased as cards, prints, tee-shirts and calendars. I'm not going to get properly rich from this unless half of the Australian population buy a greeting card in any given year, but maybe I'll get some warm fuzzy feelings from knowing someone liked a photo enough to pay a few dollars for it. If there is any specific photo you'd like, let me know and I'll see if we can get it up there.

Scooter still developing

2010-03-09T20:04:00.005+11:00

Saw the swans briefly last night in failing light. Scooter continues to develop.

Friendly Beaches

2010-03-08T21:24:00.007+11:00

Had a somewhat leisurely visit and walk at the Friendly Beaches just north of Coles Bay at the weekend. The camping are here is quite nice, with well spaced campsires, mainly occupied. I got the last one that I could see when I got there. The toilet near my tentsite was somewhat less salubrious, but tolerable. It's nowhere near as bad as the one I once used at Hammersley Gorge in WA - a former long-drop, which had become a short-drop. I'm not sure why they haven't replaced the toliets here with composting ones, as they must get a lot of use.

Had a few swims, and the water was really warm for Tasmania. Lovely place, well worth a visit. Walking north along here you could probably get to Bicheno. There might be some tricky rocky sections as you approached Cape Lodi. A few kilometres north of Isaacs Point (where the road accesses the beaches) you come to what appears to be private property. There were trail bikes, 4WDs and a shack/campsite here. A walk to the south might be better, and next time I'll try that.

These bluebottles (PDF, 1MB) (Physalia utriculus, I believe) were washed up all along the beach. Didn't strike any in the water, just lucky I guess.

Scooter still scooting

2010-03-02T20:45:00.004+11:00

Scooter seems very settled with his family at the moment. He's obviously delayed developmentally compared to his siblings, but he gets about quite happily. Just a couple of photos today. I'll post some other showing his siblings and their showing off etc when I find time.

That's Scooter's dud leg waving behind him. I noticed that he does seem to use it as some sort of steering mechanism when he drags it in the water, but he often keeps it out of the water as well.

Scooter can stand

2010-02-21T11:11:00.003+11:00

Found the swans along the Franklin foreshore today. I almost missed them, looking across the river with binoculars, when they were swimming about only a few metres from me. Just need to look down sometimes. Scooter seems well, and I watched him stand in the shallows on his one working leg. He had occasional balance problems, but otherwise seems to manage this OK. I still haven't seen him fully out of the water, and I don't know if or how he would do this. All the cygnets are getting darker and larger all the time, so it can be hard to tell whether you're looking at a juvenile or an adult depending on the light.

Water Quality should sink this government

2010-02-15T20:32:00.007+11:00

Shocking and occasionally hilarious program on Australian Story tonight. How a government becomes so beholden to vested interests that it refuses to even try to look after the people who elect it, own it and should be protected by it. Dr Alison Bleaney was profiled, along with her story of the contamination of water in the Georges River in NE Tasmania. we can hope the transcript isn't far behind. Amongst others presented as speaking for the Tasmanian "government" were Steve Kons and Bryan Green, showing a (for me) hilarious contrast in credibility with Dr Bleaney and her partner-in-subversion, Dr Marcus Scammell. Another episode to come next week apparently. Just like Dr Who! The Master has replaced all the inhabitants of Earth with himself, creating the Master Race. If only little Davey Bartlett had a machine like him....

The swan family make a visit

2010-02-13T20:57:00.005+11:00

Since I don't watch for them continually, but visit Franklin every two or three days to see if they're about, I don't know how often they now visit the Franklin foreshore. They have often been absent, presumably because they have a need to be elsewhere on the river. This evening though, they were around, and all looking very well. Scooter is the smaller, lighter and fluffier cygnet. His single-legged swimming appears to work quite well, and I didn't see any bullying from either his parents or siblings. Maybe he's learnt to "fit in".

Nevada Peak - 6th and 7th February 2010

2010-02-09T18:39:00.020+11:00

Mount Anne from Nevada Peak

The Anne Range is especially prominent across the Weld Valley from Nevada Peak, and the setting sun lit the mist very nicely the other day.

Had a great overnight visit to Nevada Peak, camping at the upper Snowdrift Tarn with absolute waterfrontage. The nearest neighbour was at the lowest Snowdrift Tarn, and they kept the noise down! Nevada Peak is one of the loveliest walks in the Huon area, and is relatively unknown, due to (i) the walk start being hidden obscurely up forestry tracks with no signs and (ii) the fact that National Parks have it listed as a wilderness "route" that shouldn't be publicised. If you want details of the walk I can provide them to people who agree not to publicise them and will only take small groups. Check the "walk description" (such as it is!) at Walk the Huon and email me from there.

This walk has a solid climb, part of which is quite tree-rooty and convoluted, so opportunities for photography (read, excuses to 'pause') were welcome. This little spider was wandering about on a pandanni, and this was my first grab-shot of him. I tried to carefully set up a couple more but he kept moving, so this was the best.

The tarn is about 20 minutes steep climb below the summit, so I was able to visit the summit twice, once on Saturday evening and then again early on Sunday morning. The descent in the evening was assisted by torchlight after I'd waited until the sun actually set behind the Anne Range. Views were marvellous and I thought I was pretty fortunate to see both sunset and sunrise from the peak. The wind, although quite gentle and easterly was quite chilly and I ended up shivering both times as I wandered about madly taking photos. The view from the summit is dominated by Mount Ann (top picture) and Mount Weld, but also includes dozens of other peaks. Snowy South (left) is close and prominent to the south along the ridge of the Snowy Range.

A chilly torchlit start on Sunday was rewarded with lovely dawn and sunrise colours in the view, basically around 360 degrees. I have more pictures on Picasa. This view was south-easterly and sees Snowy South silhouetted along the ridge, and the upper Snowdrift Tarn where my tent was.

The view to the north along the ridge is marvellous. Here Snowy North can be seen a few kilometres north, draped in morning mist, beyond the large boulders near the summit of Nevada Peak. A walk north along the ridge might be interesting, but possibly scrubby. I understand this area provides some good cross-country skiing when there's a decent snow cover. The Mt Field mountains are visible in the top left. On this occasion I returned via Woolleys Tarn which does add a bit of extra time to the walk but provides variety.

Photos at Picasa

Hartz Peak - 30th January 2010

2010-02-08T21:01:00.008+11:00

On 30th and 31st January they ran Targa Wrest Point, a sort of mini-Targa Tasmania along the roads in Kingborough and the Huon Valley which have been deemed either uneconomic or not suitable for inclusion in the real Targa. It's quite spectacular, and I noted that the cars were going to pass the end of the Hartz Mountains Road 4 times during Saturday. I made sure I got there before they closed the road, and was duly barricaded in. Anyway, having photographed the cars driving once in each direction I headed up to the Hartz. Scenery spectacular as always, but today some sights closer to the ground.

While trying to photograph these Alpine Sundews (Drosera arcturi)...

...I noticed this fellow behind them. He came out quite well. He avoided becoming stuck on a sundew too. Not sure a sundew could 'eat' a grasshopper this big though. My book Wings (Elizabeth Daley) identifies him as a Tassie Hopper, Russalpia albertisi.

On the way back down the steep bit above Ladys Tarn this White-Lipped Whipsnake (Drysdalia coronoides) evaded me. I've seen these little snakes several time in this vicinity. It is understood that generally whip snakes pose little danger as they have very small mouth and fangs, however Snakes and Lizards of Tasmania (Hutchinson, Swain & Driessen) says "if handled these snakes bite repeatedly". I'll avoid handling them then! My mum was pretty sure one bit her once, but even the doctor wasn't sure when she eventually went to see him.

"Scooter" swims on

2010-02-08T20:44:00.004+11:00

I've decided the injured cygnet looks like someone riding a scooter when he paddles about, because he makes big thrusts with just his right leg. So, *he's* Scooter. Also, he's still swimming about. Haven't seen the family for about a week, but they were near the Wooden Boat School again yesterday afternoon and this morning. Scooter is in the middle preening. he's obviously smaller and less developed than his siblings.

Scooter was waggling his injured leg a lot. I wondered if he was working out how to make it do something useful. It appears that the lower joint doesn't work, but he was able to slap the water with it. Anyway, he did manage to lift himself out of the water like his parents and siblings, and flap his rather small wings. I haven't seen him do that before.

How a differently-abled cygnet relates to his family

2010-01-27T20:47:00.009+11:00

Took these yesterday evening. My little friend the cygnet is continuing to paddle about with his family and, while a little smaller and fluffier than the others, he is developing. His wings are much smaller than those of some of the other five cygnets.

His siblings are larger, their wings are more developed and their plumage is darker. This is one of the largest ones out of the water and grooming. I haven't seen the injured cygnet out of the water. He did mess about above this same submerged log, but didn't stand and groom like the others were. I assume he can stand on the one leg, but I'm not sure how he would actually get out of the water. Possibly he doesn't, but floats about to sleep. I have seen the whole family with heads tucked under wings floating around the wharf having a nanna-nap.

Here one of his siblings is showing off their wings.

The tide was quite high at the time, so the water depth over the bottom was much greater. I noticed that he was following the others around and swiping a bit of weed when they dived for it.

He clearly cannot do the "duck-dive" that the others do, although I did get the impression he was trying to. Maybe with a bit more size and strength, and practice, he'll work it out. Here he is hanging around while the others dive for weed.

And he's got some weed that one of the adults let him have. When I first saw the family in mid-December the adults were diving for weed and distributing it to the cygnets. They're still doing it for this one at times. If he pinches food from the others, it's not surprising that they peck at him.

And here's one of the adults. Just liked the photo actually!

Pelicans on the Huon River

2010-01-26T22:27:00.005+11:00

The book says they're uncommon. I saw one a couple of years ago, but now I've seen a few on the river. One flew south past Franklin the other evening, and now we've seen some on the river opposite Braeside, south of Franklin. There are three which have been seen regularly on the logs just offshore of the Braeside intersection. The photos aren't good enough - I *need* a much better lens! (Not likely!)

More of the swans

2010-01-26T11:34:00.002+11:00

Checked them out again today, all still OK.

South Cape Bay - 25th January 2010

2010-01-26T10:47:00.008+11:00

Wagged work yesterday to go bushwalking instead. (Actually, it was arranged, OK!) Nice day for a walk to South Cape Bay, not too hot, but warm enough for shirt and shorts all day. The track was quite busy yesterday, including a number finishing the South Coast Track. The tide was very low, revealing a lot of rocks, some of which are also normally covered in sand.

This rock formation is intriguing. It is below the cliffs as you walk towards the steps, and you can reach it at low tide by doubling back after descending. I think it's often covered with sand, and that's why I've only seen it now and then. The jointing is very reminiscent of those in the Tesselated Pavement at Eaglehawk Neck, but I haven't yet investigated possible links in rock types and ages.

Looking like part of the family

2010-01-24T12:36:00.004+11:00

My injured cygnet friend looks like one of the family at the moment. He's a bit smaller and fluffier than any of the other five cygnets, and his wings are less developed, but he's with the family full time now as far as I can tell, and he's keeping up with them. His right leg must be getting very strong.

You can see how he carries the damaged left leg laid across his tail, keeping it out of the water when he's moving. It must just create drag.

The leg is clearly damaged lower down, so that while he can move the leg as a whole, he can't use the lower joints. I assume this is because the fishing line had reduced blood flow to the lower leg for too long.

The adults show the uses to which you can put a very long neck.

Injured cygnet still kicking

2010-01-19T22:02:00.005+11:00

Actually he's looking a little better. With the rest of his family, they were all foraging close to the shore halfway down the Franklin riverfront this evening. He did get harassed by one of the others briefly, but basically the family seem happier for him to hang out with them. He doesn't seem able to do the deeper duck-dive with his bum in the air like the others do to forage the bottom in deeper water, and I wonder if this manoeuvre requires the feet to be working well. I suspect, thinking of the mechanics, that he would need to pull both feet hard up towards his chest in order to swing his body vertically downwards. Being unable to do this will impede his feeding. He manages to stand on one leg, but I haven't seen him properly out of the water. He is developing darker plumage. Time will tell, and I remain intrigued.

His siblings are developing their wings more rapidly. Interestingly, it does appear that three of the cygnets are slightly more developed than the other three - based on my assessment of their "fluffiness". This one is amusing - developing flight feathers, but with fluffy down on top of the wing - and here he is emulating his parents display. I'm not entirely sure what it's about, but the adults have certainly done it to me when they seemed to want to tell me to go away. Might just be posing!

The Ugly Ducklings - Part 6

2010-01-17T16:09:00.003+11:00

Then over subsequent days I've looked out for them. The injured cygnet can be found alone at times, or hanging around with the family. When he's with the family he's like an outsider - he probably feels better with them, but his siblings have pecked at him for some time, and the adults are now pecking away at him at times too. I think they see him as a bit of a "drag". In this first photo you can see three of his siblings about to harass him for getting in their way. His other problem right now is that he isn't as big as the others - I assume because he has more trouble eating and is using more energy swimming. There must also be benefits from being in the group that he is missing out on.

His leg remains useless. he does seem to be able to move it a little, but I suspect it is dead from halfway down. So, when he's swimming he tends to drape it on his butt which must reduce drag. He has an ungainly and lopsided stroke, a little like someone swimming side-stroke. His right leg must be getting very strong.

He must also be getting more independent than the others, given their usual exclusion of him, and they way they disappear without him. However, I suspect this is not overall a good thing.

This one of his siblings is clearly larger, sleeker and more mature. The injured cygnet remains fluffier, and overall a little shabbier. The uninjured cygnets are developing their darker plumage quite obviously.

Anyway, he always seems to catch up with the family again. Here he is early this morning - a bit peripheral, but swimming along gamely nonetheless. I'm interested to see if he can survive - I assume not, but then I thought he'd be dead by now.

The Ugly Ducklings - Part 5

2010-01-17T15:42:00.006+11:00

The next day I passed by in mid-morning. The family were swimming about together, but the injured cygnet was being monstered by the others. He seemed to be moving better, but still not well. Looked like the leg was permanently damaged. In early evening I got some closer shots. His leg looked better than it had when the fishing line was wrapped around it, but he still draped it, and it didn't seem to be of use.

A little later he had been left on his own. The rest of the family had disappeared, across or down-river perhaps. This little fellow was swimming about haphazardly - seemed to be looking for the others. He swam across the river, then back, and then across again. All this in a stiff breeze, across the current, and with one leg. He must use a lot more energy than if he had both legs working. Seeing this, I again assumed he wasn't going to make it. When I left he was on the far side of the river in the gathering gloom.

The Ugly Ducklings - Part 4

2010-01-17T15:11:00.006+11:00

Having watched the swan family for some time, they had become quite used to me. I think they are also accustomed to people handing them food, as they have a tendency to swim up with an expectant air about them. I didn't see them for some time, as they weren't around the Wooden Boat School when I was. Then on the morning of 10th January. a week ago, I saw them returning from downriver. One of the cygnets appeared to be asserting his independence, swimming apart from the group, and doing his own thing. It became apparent that he was actually injured in some way.

He was swimming with only one leg, the other was draped somewhat uselessly either in the water or along his back. This gave him a very ungainly swimming style. The family appeared to be a bit impatient with him, but the adults waited for him and hung about. Most of my photos of him were blurry - he wasn't staying still, but in a couple he looked like he had some fishing line tangled round him.

I returned in the afternoon, to find him slumped on a mudbank near the Wooden Boat School, where he was obsessively scrtaching away at his breast with his beak. At times he appeared frenzied. It was hard to tell, but his leg did appear like it might have fishing line wound tightly around it. I noticed that his siblings were pecking at him. The adults were just hanging around. I thought he was a goner. A lady on a nearby boat started to feed the rest of the family some bread, and at this he hauled himself across the little inlet and started to try to compete for some. He didn't do well.

I wandered over and had a chat to the couple of the boat, pointing out that one of the cygnets appeared to have a damaged leg, possibly with fishing line. Being closer to the water, the bloke looked more closely, and then managed to grab him. They proceeded to remove a couple of meters of fishing line snarl which had wrapped around his leg, at least twice, his body, his neck and just about everywhere else. Very tight turns around his upper leg had to be cut off.

On release, he was obviously a little better, but his leg was still draped behind him, and still appeared useless.

The Ugly Ducklings - Part 3

2010-01-17T15:04:00.003+11:00

The Ugly Ducklings - Part 2

2010-01-17T14:52:00.005+11:00

The Ugly Ducklings

2010-01-11T22:02:00.004+11:00

I've been following this family of swans since mid-December, when I found them finding weed for the cygnets in the shallows near the Wooden Boat School at Franklin. They have six cygnets, which seemed like a large family to me. Having watched duck families whittled down by predators and roads, I wondered how many of these would survive. However, they were much larger than a duckling, nearly as big as the biggest ducks nearby. Could they all grow to be graceful swans like their parents?

Hartz Peak - 11th January 2010

2010-01-11T17:07:00.004+11:00

Early start today, and some nice early light for photos. This gave way to increasing heat. Today has reached 37 degrees at Grove, 29 degrees at Keoghs Pimple (at Hartz). The P&WS were busily putting out the Fire Ban signs this morning. I note that they have removed the water tank from the Waratah barbecue shelter - better take your own water if you're heading there to cook and picnic. The Mountain Rocket (Bellendena montana) and other flowers are providing some summer colour right now.

Hartz Peak - 3 October 2009

2010-01-11T16:59:00.004+11:00

Some shots from an ascent in light snow late last year.

Maria Island - 23rd to 27th September 2009

2009-12-13T13:20:00.005+11:00

Full set of Photos at Picasa. Or try out the new slideshow feature.

Getting to Maria Island

The ferry currently leaves from near the visitor centre at the Triabunna wharf. Check their website for sailing times. The trips I had recently were fairly rough, although neither was as visually worrying as one the family had a few years ago in a very strong westerly. The boat looks large at the wharf, but does seem smaller amongst the swells. Nonetheless, the blokes running it are very good, and the boat actually handles the sea very well. On days when you can see clearly, there are often dolphins to be seen. On arrival on the island, the rangers will be in attendance at the old Commissariat Store on the seafront to take your money for camping or national park passes. Before heading over right now, it might be worth checking whether your intended activity is possible. Very heavy rain has damaged bridges and roads, and quite massively flooded the campground. There was mention in the press that there would be difficulties with the drinking water supply over summer.

Day 1 - Darlington to Encampment Cove

The walk south from Darlington is relatively straightforward. The 4WD track heads up and over the headland to the south, then down to Hopground Beach, where the Painted Cliffs are located. On my trip the creek there was in flood and pouring across 50 metres of road, with a large mat of brush and timber damming it. The latest heavy rain has apparently washed the bridge away, so a short wade may be required. This creek is not normally very large, so it shouldn’t be a problem. From here the track climbs and falls, in and out around the coast. You should see wombats grazing, and there are good views in many places. Frenchs Farm is perhaps two to three hours, depending on what you stop to look at. Camping is possible at Frenchs Farm, and when it isn’t busy, you can probably get away with staying inside the farmhouse. This is not preferred by the rangers, so be prepared to get turfed out. The camping there is good, and there is a toilet. You can also cycle most of these tracks, as two blokes I met at Frenchs Farm had done.

Encampment Cove is another half hour (or less) beyond Frenchs, and the track is clearly signed near the farm. Here you will find a small hut, with “bunks” for about four, and a good bench along the wall for cooking on. On my trip I had this to myself for the three nights I was there. There is also apparently good camping here, however the campground was largely under water during my stay, so I can’t vouch for it completely.

The location is delightful, with camping within a few steps of the gentle waters of Chinamans Bay. There is a pit toilet here. The shore is mainly rocky, and apparently you can catch fish here – I didn’t, despite a lot of attempts. The sunrise is worth getting up for on clear mornings. There is also the remains of a stone convict-built jetty to add historical interest.

Day 2 - Haunted Bay

Haunted Bay lies on the southern coast of South Maria. Walking from Encampment Cove it took me about two hours. From Frenchs Farm you take the track south, first walking along the isthmus between Reidle Bay and Shoal Bay. Both bays can be visited easily along several tracks or by picking your way through the scrub. Reidle Bay in particular is worth a visit, and is a good wild ocean beach. The waves here were quite impressive, and on the days I visited were sweeping right up to and even across the low dunes behind the beach. It was interesting to watch the huge mass of water, having swept up and along the dunes, and clearly coloured by the sand it had picked up, smash its way back out to sea through the following waves. There was no doubt that walking along this beach could result in being picked up along with the sand and swept out into the bay.

From the south end of the isthmus, the Haunted Bay Track forks left, and heads quite gently uphill and across the south island, before descending very steeply. Haunted Bay is a rugged granite cove, and would be very impressive in rough weather. The waves were quite gentle while I was there. At the end, the track emerges on the rocks, and you can pick your way down sloping granite to the water’s edge. The resident sea eagle checked me out at some length as I arrived, and my attempts to photograph him reminded me why bird photographers spend so much on big expensive lenses. A seal came to visit while I was fishing here (catch: nil), and unfortunately I had left the camera safely out of the way about ten metres higher up. This was a good place to sit and eat lunch, and I’d like to return in wilder weather sometime. I considered returning by walking along the shore of Shoal Bay, however the sand was very soggy, and I used the track instead.

Day 3 - Point Lesueur and Robeys Farm

Just north of Encampment Cove, and accessible by a direct track from the campground, is Point Leseuer. This was a secondary convict station in earlier times, and the convict cells remain standing on the windswept hill. There are a variety of interesting features to be seen and explored. It was very windy when I was there, and the rain was coming horizontally. I’ll have to return when the weather is more conducive to ambling about and exploring. I retreated to the more sheltered Encampment Cove to set off for Robeys Farm.

Robeys Farm was farmed until 1965, and lies on the western side of South Maria. Walking south across the isthmus, the track forks right. After crossing the delightfully named Stinking Creek, the track climbs a little and then descends to Robeys Shore. After a short walk uphill the track emerges in a clearing with a tidy and solid weatherboard farmhouse, domestic flowers blooming with somewhat unkempt abandon, and agricultural equipment and machinery scattered about. The farmhouse has had quite a lot of restoration work undertaken in cooperation between the Hobart Walking Club and the National Parks and Wildlife Service, although it is not clear that this is continuing now. Inside the stove and some furniture remains. On the verandah are arranged displays of items obviously left behind, and on the wall inside is the story of Robey. A sign tells you not to camp there, but I think a small group could stay inside if they were careful to leave the place as they found it.

Day 4 - Mount Maria

I returned to Darlington on Day 4, via the Inland Track and Mount Maria. This track heads inland about 1.5 km north of Frenchs Farm. It undulates and winds over and around the southwestern foothills of Mount Maria. The climbs and falls are much more significant than on the coast, however the highest point is only about 150m, and it makes for a different return trip. It was very wet underfoot when I was there, but I assume it is normally quite dry and dusty. The side track to Mount Maria is reached where the track climbs up from Hpground Beach. This heads south east up a long ridge, gradually becoming steeper. There is a boulder field to cross and climb, and then the last bit is quite steep with some easy boulder scrambling. The view from the 711m summit is worth the climb, and provides a grandstand view of the various walking areas on Maria Island.

East Coast Deluge - 22-23 Sep 2009

2009-11-29T21:45:00.003+11:00

I went to Maria Island in September, between the two East Coast deluges on 22nd/23rd and 26th/27th of the month. These are photos on the morning after the first. I'm not sure I've ever noticed the creek at Buckland before, but on this day it was enormous. At the dam on the Prosser River, the locals were all out looking at the flow of water. They were stunned. The rocks in the bottom of the dam had been visible just a day or so earlier. The young bloke helping on the ferry had been fishing off the rocks below the dam the weekend before.