Pirates Bay Birdlife

On a rainy Saturday when the walking tracks were closed, I found a variety of birdlife along the shore.

Pied Oystercatcher.

Pacific Gull

Pacific Gull

Sooty Oystercatcher

Silver Gull

Silver Gull

Sooty Oystercatcher

Pacific Gull

Freycinet Peninsula - 26th-28th November 2012

Had three days, two nights organised to walk down Freycinet Peninsula. I've previously been there in the middle of summer and walked back across the heights on a 35° day, so a slightly earlier trip aimed for cooler weather. In the event, the first two days were mainly cool, cloudy and sometimes drizzly, but the third day was sunny and warm without being too hot. It's a "while" since I carried an overnight pack, so there were some muscle-training issues to deal with too.

The Walk

I did what is called the "anti-clockwise circuit of the peninsula". You leave from the Wineglass Bay carpark, and climb to the saddle before heading down to Wineglass Bay. From there, the Isthmus Track heads west through pleasant forest to Hazards Beach on the other side of the peninsula. This track passes close to the northern end of Hazards Lagoon. This is often dry, but at the moment is full of water and life.

Hazards Lagoon, Freycinet Peninsula - 26th November 2012

The track emerges on Hazards Beach, a quite sheltered beach, down which you walk to Lagunta Creek (often dry, but flowing gently at the moment), and some rocks with an interesting geological history.

Looking north along Hazards Beach, Freycinet Peninsula - 26th November 2012

From there the track heads a little inland and undulates southwards to Cooks Beach, then follows the beach south to Cooks Corner where there is a campground and water tanks fed from the roof of the old farmhouse. These water tanks are basically what makes Freycinet walking relatively easy once the weather dries up, as otherwise everyone would have to carry all or most of their water. Please use the water sparingly, as the tanks can become low later in the season if rain is scarce.

The Hazards seen from Cooks Beach - 27th November 2012

From Cooks Beach, you can walk further south to Bryans Beach and beyond, and this is a good half-day or day walk. There is no reliable water south of Cooks Beach, so it must be carried. Bryans Beach is a lovely, moderately sheltered beach and well worth a visit. It is only about 40 minutes walk through the forest from Cooks Beach to emerge at the northern end of Bryans Beach.

Looking south to Schouten Island from Bryans Beach - 27th November 2012

The Hazards from Cooks Beach at sunset - 27th November 2012

Pacific Gull, Larus pacificus, Freycinet Peninsula - 27th November 2012.

On a following day, the return leg of the walk heads back along Cooks Beach to its northern end, then turns sharp right and heads up onto the southern flanks of Mount Freycinet. This is a good solid climb through attractive forest. It emerges at the saddle between Mount Freycinet and Mount Graham at around 400m in height. From there you can turn left and climb 620m Mount Freycinet, as a steep and rough sidetrip, leaving your pack at the intersection. Having been there a couple of times before, I didn't climb it this time. Mount Freycinet has superb views as it is the highest point on the peninsula. Various creeks were flowing either moderately or as a trickle last week, although without further good rains, these should not be counted on, and you need to carry sufficient water. In hot weather, this return trip can be quite demanding.

Forest in morning sunlight, southern flanks of Mount Freycinet - 28th November 2012

White Flag Iris, Diplarrena moraea, Freycinet Peninsula - 28th November 2012

The main track continues steeply onto 579m Mount Graham, and passes about 100m from its summit. You can leave your pack and use obvious tracks to find the summit rocks, which provide great views of Wineglass Bay and The Hazards.

The Hazards and Wineglass Bay from Mount Graham - 28th November 2012

With the route to Wineglass Bay being downhill, you would be forgiven for thinking the hard work was over, but I find that much of the track across the top of the hills and down to Wineglass Bay is quite taxing. There are some steep rocky sections, and much of the track is quite rough and as a result takes longer than I expect it to! There is one section in the forest where the track arrives suddenly on a moderate cliff, and sidles along a ledge. If taking children across here, make sure they are competent to avoid falling off things. However, it is a quite pleasant walk, initially across quite open heathland and then in the forest, and eventually emerges at Wineglass Bay where a break and maybe a swim will be welcome on warm days. There is rarely flowing water in the creek at that point. The standing water doesn't inspire confidence.

Mount Amos and Mount Dove from Wineglass Bay - 28th November 2012

Mount Graham and Mount Freycinet from Wineglass Bay - 28th November 2012

The final leg is along Wineglass Bay beach, with the stunning views of the southern side of The Hazards falling steeply into the water, then back up and over the saddle to the carpark.

Overall, this walk requires moderate fitness (to carry your pack over the mountains) but does not require all the warm and waterproof gear you might need for other Tasmanian walks. It can be done in two days, with one night spent at Cooks Beach, although I took three days with a leisurely day of wandering about taking photographs in between. The scenery is great, there's plenty of wildlife, and there's plenty of camping space. I recommend asking the rangers about the availability of water before undertaking this walk. They may even be able to tell you that certain creeks are flowing, saving the lugging of water up part of the hill, although they understandably avoid guessing.

Mount Field East - 1st January 2012

Forest below Lake Nicholls in early morning mist, Mount Field National Park - 1st January 2012

I haven't done this walk for about 15 years I think. Last time was with my oldest son on my back, he'd have been around three, and we didn't go to the top as the wind and cold on the plateau was unpleasant that day.

Not so this last weekend, although the day dawned cloudy and drizzly at Mount Field. This walk can be started from either Lake Fenton or lower down the road at a signposted parking area, and done either as a circuit or an out-and-back from either spot. I've always started at the carpark lower down, and did so this weekend.

The walk starts with a shortish uphill stretch. A turnoff to the left signposted to Lake Fenton is passed. I honestly have no idea where this track comes out higher up, as I was unable to find an upper end to it later in the day. I will have to walk up it one day when I have the time and inclination. The right fork heads for Lake Nicholls and Mount Field East, and levels off to countour around the hill and then onto the narrow lateral moraine to the east of Lake Nicholls. There are views down to the lake here, and the track then descends slightly off the end of the moraine to the lake outlet and hut. For the first time in about four or five visits here I was rewarded with sunny views of the lake, and it is very beautiful. The forest is also pretty, and on Sunday the sunlight filtering through the soft mist and around the trees was a fine sight.

Slime mould on Lake Nicholls track - 1st January 2012

The hut has been renovated and is quite welcoming. I didn't pay any attention to whether camping is allowed in the hut, but it would certainly accommodate it from a physical point of view. There are plenty of boulders at the lake shore for sitting and enjoying a break and a snack.

Lake Nicholls, Mount Field National Park - 1st January 2012

Beyond the hut the track climbs significantly. Lake Rayner will be seen on the left, and the track then climbs across boulders and past increasing pandanni to emerge on the plateau of Windy Moor below the summit pile of Mount Field East. The cairned track climbs across boulders, occasinally steeply, to arrive at the summit which is marked by a large collapsed (demolished?) cairn. This now resembles a bowl-shaped windbreak, like the one on Hartz Peak only larger. Good views can be had from here, and in the warm sun on Sunday it was a good spot for a rest.

Waratah, Telopea truncata, Mount Field East Track - 1st January 2012

Descending to the base of the boulders again, a track heads off southwest across Windy Moor. This was quite dry, but could be a little damp underfoot after wet weather I think. the track climbs a little onto a ridge and then descends quite steeply to Lake Fenton. A sidetrack to Seagers Lookout is passed on the descent, and a sidetrip here would require an 80m re-ascent. The track emerges at the Lake Fenton mini-dam, another good spot for s rest. I looked here for a track that would take me back down to the carpark without requiring a walk down the road. There is a track which starts through a gate and passes the Lake  Fenton hut, but it emerges on the road, and I couldn't find another obvious track. The road walk is about 2.5km. I do recall a nice ranger passing a friend and I on this stretch once as the rain fell and giving us a lift in back of his ute. Not on Sunday, but the road is relatively safe with good visibility at most points, and most cars are going quite slowly.

Mount Field West and Naturaliste Peak viewed from Mount Field East with Windy Moor and Newdegate Pass in between
- 1st January 2012

All in all this is a good walk, with interesting sights and good spots for breaks along the way. I took about 4.5 hrs with several stops to enjoy the lake, the peak and lunch.

Metallic Skink, Niveoscincus metallicus (I think) - Mount Field East - 1st January 2012

South Cape Bay - 7th November 2010

Had a nice walk to South Cape Bay. This fellow was happily munching ants along the track and was quite unconcerned about me, at least until the camera's flash became annoying.

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Lots of interesting flotsam on the beach, including this sponge.

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Stormy weather had washed up large mounds of kelp, which makes for interesting foregrounds in photos at least.

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I wondered about harvesting some pieces to see if I could make some of those lovely water-carriers and other items the Aboriginal ladies make. Then of course I remembered it's a national park...

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There were quite a lot of dead shearwaters around. I've also seen significant numbers on Fortescue Bay Beach.

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Stormy weather had altered the beach quite a lot. There was lots of exposed rock and sand had been stripped from most parts of the beach.

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The Tasmanian Laurels (Anopterus glandulosus) were in flower along the track, noticeably in the old sand dunes behind the beach.

Friendly Beaches

Had a somewhat leisurely visit and walk at the Friendly Beaches just north of Coles Bay at the weekend. The camping are here is quite nice, with well spaced campsires, mainly occupied. I got the last one that I could see when I got there. The toilet near my tentsite was somewhat less salubrious, but tolerable. It's nowhere near as bad as the one I once used at Hammersley Gorge in WA - a former long-drop, which had become a short-drop. I'm not sure why they haven't replaced the toliets here with composting ones, as they must get a lot of use.

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Had a few swims, and the water was really warm for Tasmania. Lovely place, well worth a visit. Walking north along here you could probably get to Bicheno. There might be some tricky rocky sections as you approached Cape Lodi. A few kilometres north of Isaacs Point (where the road accesses the beaches) you come to what appears to be private property. There were trail bikes, 4WDs and a shack/campsite here. A walk to the south might be better, and next time I'll try that.

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These bluebottles (PDF, 1MB) (Physalia utriculus, I believe) were washed up all along the beach. Didn't strike any in the water, just lucky I guess.

Pelicans on the Huon River

The book says they're uncommon. I saw one a couple of years ago, but now I've seen a few on the river. One flew south past Franklin the other evening, and now we've seen some on the river opposite Braeside, south of Franklin. There are three which have been seen regularly on the logs just offshore of the Braeside intersection. The photos aren't good enough - I *need* a much better lens! (Not likely!)

Injured cygnet still kicking

Actually he's looking a little better. With the rest of his family, they were all foraging close to the shore halfway down the Franklin riverfront this evening. He did get harassed by one of the others briefly, but basically the family seem happier for him to hang out with them. He doesn't seem able to do the deeper duck-dive with his bum in the air like the others do to forage the bottom in deeper water, and I wonder if this manoeuvre requires the feet to be working well. I suspect, thinking of the mechanics, that he would need to pull both feet hard up towards his chest in order to swing his body vertically downwards. Being unable to do this will impede his feeding. He manages to stand on one leg, but I haven't seen him properly out of the water. He is developing darker plumage. Time will tell, and I remain intrigued.


His siblings are developing their wings more rapidly. Interestingly, it does appear that three of the cygnets are slightly more developed than the other three - based on my assessment of their "fluffiness". This one is amusing - developing flight feathers, but with fluffy down on top of the wing - and here he is emulating his parents display. I'm not entirely sure what it's about, but the adults have certainly done it to me when they seemed to want to tell me to go away. Might just be posing!

The Ugly Ducklings - Part 6

Then over subsequent days I've looked out for them. The injured cygnet can be found alone at times, or hanging around with the family. When he's with the family he's like an outsider - he probably feels better with them, but his siblings have pecked at him for some time, and the adults are now pecking away at him at times too. I think they see him as a bit of a "drag". In this first photo you can see three of his siblings about to harass him for getting in their way. His other problem right now is that he isn't as big as the others - I assume because he has more trouble eating and is using more energy swimming. There must also be benefits from being in the group that he is missing out on.



His leg remains useless. he does seem to be able to move it a little, but I suspect it is dead from halfway down. So, when he's swimming he tends to drape it on his butt which must reduce drag. He has an ungainly and lopsided stroke, a little like someone swimming side-stroke. His right leg must be getting very strong.



He must also be getting more independent than the others, given their usual exclusion of him, and they way they disappear without him. However, I suspect this is not overall a good thing.






This one of his siblings is clearly larger, sleeker and more mature. The injured cygnet remains fluffier, and overall a little shabbier. The uninjured cygnets are developing their darker plumage quite obviously.



Anyway, he always seems to catch up with the family again. Here he is early this morning - a bit peripheral, but swimming along gamely nonetheless. I'm interested to see if he can survive - I assume not, but then I thought he'd be dead by now.

The Ugly Ducklings - Part 5

The next day I passed by in mid-morning. The family were swimming about together, but the injured cygnet was being monstered by the others. He seemed to be moving better, but still not well. Looked like the leg was permanently damaged. In early evening I got some closer shots. His leg looked better than it had when the fishing line was wrapped around it, but he still draped it, and it didn't seem to be of use.






A little later he had been left on his own. The rest of the family had disappeared, across or down-river perhaps. This little fellow was swimming about haphazardly - seemed to be looking for the others. He swam across the river, then back, and then across again. All this in a stiff breeze, across the current, and with one leg. He must use a lot more energy than if he had both legs working. Seeing this, I again assumed he wasn't going to make it. When I left he was on the far side of the river in the gathering gloom.