Had a lovely day to climb Mount Pillinger in February. Stitching the panorama together probably took almost as long as walking the track. Not sure why, but it came out quite (or very) strangely in every piece of panorama software I currently have, using every option I could find. I finally got it to work OK in Microsoft ICE on about the third attempt by omitting one photo where there was enough overlap to miss one. Sorry for the slight waviness, it was handheld. I got one version which was straighter, but it had weird kinks in the horizon and bands where it couldn't sort out the joins! This is especially for Peter McHugh, who found this an inspiring view as a teenager.
Larger version (about 1MB). Zoom in on it, it's 800 pixels high.
Sunday, 12 May 2013
Tuesday, 7 May 2013
New website highlights Hobart walking tracks
This new website, Greater Hobart Trails was featured in the Mercury this morning. Well worth a look. I've found a couple of new walks already. I do note that they have avoided some of the more risky bits of some walks. I think it's probably a compilation of the walks that have been featured on the various council websites for some time.
Sunday, 5 May 2013
Mt Pillinger - 12th February 2013
A nice climb to this peak with great views of so many famous Tasmanian mountains. "...I took in that view and have never stopped walking since." (P. McHugh)
Mount Pillinger is walked from the end of the Arm River Road, up the Mersey River valley behind Mole Creek. This is the same walk start as the standard walk-in to Pelion Hut on the Overland Track. Walk Description coming soon.
Having "walked around the mountains" previously, I was keen to try climbing both Mt Pillinger and Twin Spires on Cathedral Mountain. I had wondered if I might climb Mt Pillinger as a side-trip at the end of that earlier walk, but in the rain of my last day it didn't seem like a brilliant plan.
Mt Pillinger is quite impressive from several places, not least down the Mersey Valley from Kia-Ora. I've seen it a few times from there, and spent some time getting a sunset photo from near the tent platforms this last time, on a beautiful evening. What a lovely prominent peak, steep cliffs, all massive dolerite, definitely seemed worth climbing, and its position suggested it would have great views from the summit.
I've found that if I want to really understand the shape of the land, I have to climb every mountain in an area several times, in various weathers and light. Then I start to understand how the hills and valleys, ridges and rivers, cliffs, peaks, creeks, lakes and forests all work together to give us the landscape. What can I see from here? How does it look from here? What shape IS that ridge I can see from over there? I've climbed the peaks of the Huon, and have started to get a three-dimensional understanding of what I can see. Mt Pillinger, and Cathedral Mountain, looked like really great places to view this spectacular area from - The Du Cane Range, the Pelions including Mount Ossa, Cathedral Mountain. I expected to see all these. In fact, when I got there, the view was indeed fit to inspire a lifetime of walking.
The walk description provides the explanation of the route. Suffice to say that I did indeed manage to find an "alternative" route, as usual, which fortunately only added about half an hour and two kilometres to my trip. I suspect my impromptu sidetrip actually heads back to a different point in the confused road network in the upper Mersey River Valley.
Mount Rogoona is stretched out across the view when viewed from here. When it's viewed from Lake Myrtle, it's steep and prominent, the view being really along the ridge. From Pillinger we see it side-on, and can also see to the left of it the ridges which have to be crossed to climb it from the saddle. I see from here that it's no wonder it took me a while and I have a strong recollection of wandering across those misty ridges, not always sure where I was, nor exactly where the top might be. Interestingly, it's hard to pick out exactly where Lake Myrtle lies, the hills on this side of it meld into the slopes of Mount Rogoona, and perhaps it's only really visible from Mount Rogoona. From here though, I can see the forested slopes which fall away into the Mersey Valley - this is where one of my earlier "impromptu routes" headed - I think this is what is called the Jacksons Creek Track, and it heads from Lake Myrtle down to the end of the Mersey Forest Road.
I'm headed here over the next few days, the plan being to walk up to Chalice Lake and climb Twin Spires. It's an Abel, and promises even more central views than Mount Pillinger. The cliff line from Cathedral Mountain running down the Mersey Valley is visible from here. I saw these a few weeks earlier from Lees Paddocks, from where they were mysterious imposing crags, appearing occasionally through the clouds. I'm always taken by the way 30 degree slopes seem pretty much vertical when you're looking straight up them. Even more so when you have a week's worth of food and gear on your back.
I walked down to Lees Paddocks a few weeks earlier in the rain, the first time I had ever visited them. From Mount Pillinger Lees Hut is easily seen, laid out in the sun. It was drizzling when I was there, but I could see cliffs high above which my new friends confirmed belonged to Mount Pillinger. I don't think I could see the summit for cloud, but given I can see Lees Paddocks from the summit, it follows that the opposite is possible!
Quite some years ago I walked out to Lake Helios at the northern end of the Labyrinth, and climbed Mount Hyperion. It's a very distinctive mountain with the impressive summit tower seen in this photo, and featured on the cover of the first volume of The Abels. You can also see it from the climb to Mount Ossa. It has some scrambling near the top, which I have to admit I had to think about as I ascended. The views from the peak were awesome, only slightly impacted by the concept of having to climb down again. Having managed that, I recall being completely unable to detect any light above my tent as thick cloud descended during the night. By morning it had cleared, and I photographed the most stupendous view of Mount Ossa and Mount Pelion East in the sunrise. They were on film, and I must see what I can do to produce better versions.
Mount Ossa and Mount Pelion East fill a good swathe of the view. I've only had a view from the top of Mount Ossa once, but I have a 360 degree panorama from that morning. Unfortunately it's on film, so not trivial to actually produce. I should see what I can do with it in today's software. I love the view of the sedimentary rocks below the dolerite caps here.
I haven't climbed Mount Pelion West. I've heard it has large dark holes between vast boulders. They've made it more difficult by limiting where you can camp (legitimately) before climbing, but I suppose I'd better climb it sometime.
See the 360 degree panorama. It shows all the above views, and I think it confirms Peter's sentiments about the views from Mount Pillinger.
Mount Pillinger is walked from the end of the Arm River Road, up the Mersey River valley behind Mole Creek. This is the same walk start as the standard walk-in to Pelion Hut on the Overland Track. Walk Description coming soon.
Having "walked around the mountains" previously, I was keen to try climbing both Mt Pillinger and Twin Spires on Cathedral Mountain. I had wondered if I might climb Mt Pillinger as a side-trip at the end of that earlier walk, but in the rain of my last day it didn't seem like a brilliant plan.
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| Mt Pillinger from Kia-Ora. |
I've found that if I want to really understand the shape of the land, I have to climb every mountain in an area several times, in various weathers and light. Then I start to understand how the hills and valleys, ridges and rivers, cliffs, peaks, creeks, lakes and forests all work together to give us the landscape. What can I see from here? How does it look from here? What shape IS that ridge I can see from over there? I've climbed the peaks of the Huon, and have started to get a three-dimensional understanding of what I can see. Mt Pillinger, and Cathedral Mountain, looked like really great places to view this spectacular area from - The Du Cane Range, the Pelions including Mount Ossa, Cathedral Mountain. I expected to see all these. In fact, when I got there, the view was indeed fit to inspire a lifetime of walking.
The walk description provides the explanation of the route. Suffice to say that I did indeed manage to find an "alternative" route, as usual, which fortunately only added about half an hour and two kilometres to my trip. I suspect my impromptu sidetrip actually heads back to a different point in the confused road network in the upper Mersey River Valley.
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| Mount Rogoona from Mount Pillinger. |
Mount Rogoona is stretched out across the view when viewed from here. When it's viewed from Lake Myrtle, it's steep and prominent, the view being really along the ridge. From Pillinger we see it side-on, and can also see to the left of it the ridges which have to be crossed to climb it from the saddle. I see from here that it's no wonder it took me a while and I have a strong recollection of wandering across those misty ridges, not always sure where I was, nor exactly where the top might be. Interestingly, it's hard to pick out exactly where Lake Myrtle lies, the hills on this side of it meld into the slopes of Mount Rogoona, and perhaps it's only really visible from Mount Rogoona. From here though, I can see the forested slopes which fall away into the Mersey Valley - this is where one of my earlier "impromptu routes" headed - I think this is what is called the Jacksons Creek Track, and it heads from Lake Myrtle down to the end of the Mersey Forest Road.
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| Twin Spires, Cathedral Mountain and the Du Cane Range from Mount Pillinger. |
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| Lees Paddocks from Mount Pillinger. |
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| Mount Hyperion (centre) with the south ridge of Mount Ossa (right). |
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| Mount Pelion East and Mount Ossa from Mount Pillinger |
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| Mount Pelion West and Lake Ayr from Mount Pillinger. |
See the 360 degree panorama. It shows all the above views, and I think it confirms Peter's sentiments about the views from Mount Pillinger.
Sunday, 28 April 2013
Frenchmans Cap - Walk Description
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| Northward view from the Lake Tahune helipad around sunset. |
Safety
In common with many other Tasmanian walks, Frenchmans Cap has obvious hazards - precipitous cliffs, snakes and poor weather. People often under-estimate Tasmanian weather. It can be bad enough to cause hypothermia in any season, and deep snow can fall on the higher peaks at any time of year. Read this guide before undertaking walks in Tasmania. Although not to be relied on, there is Telstra 3G access from the summit and other high points along the track. the carrying of a registered personal locater beacon (PLB) is recommended.
Distances and times
The walk is 27km each way from the Lyell Highway. Walking times will vary significantly depending on fitness. I think it is occasionally daywalked in 12 -15 hours return by extremely fit and experienced "walkers", but for most of us this is beyond reach. The Loddon Plains are about to be largely circumvented, which will reduce walking time and improve comfort on the first section. Approximate one-way times are:
- Lyell Highway to Lake Vera - 5 to 7 hours
- Lake Vera to Lake Tahune - 3 1/2 to 5 hours
- Lake Tahune to Summit - 1 to 1 1/2 hours
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| The Lions Head, just to the north of Frenchmans Cap. |
Choosing an itinerary
Very fit parties walk from the highway to Lake Tahune in a long day, but for most people walking this whole distance on their first day is not a good option. A three-day visit would normally be undertaken by walking in to Lake Vera and daywalking the summit from there. This will make for a long second day, and provides only one opportunity to reach the summit and see the view, around lunchtime on day 2.
Four-day trips would normally include a summit trip either (i) on the afternoon of day 2, having walked up to Lake Tahune in the morning, or (ii) on the morning of day 3 before walking back to Lake Vera, or even (iii) both. Five day visits allow more flexibility again, providing more opportunities to go to the summit and more leisure to take the quite arduous walking at your own pace.
A further option would be to walk out from Lake Tahune to the highway in one long day. This would be less arduous than the inward journey. Some parties also choose to walk out as far as the Loddon River and then do the last bit over Mount Mullens on a final day.
If you are not fit and experienced in this sort of walking, I strongly recommend a four or five day choice. On my recent trip, I allowed 5 days, and used them all, although I considered walking back to Lake Vera on day 3 having been to the summit that day.
Accessing the walk
Driving from Hobart, you head for Queenstown. The road is slower than you might imagine given the distance, so allow extra time. You drive to Derwent Bridge and then around 29km further on there is a large carpark and information display. Just a warning, theft from vehicles has occurred at the start of this walk in the past, although I haven't been able to determine if anyone has had trouble recently. Leave no valuable items in vehicles.
Walk description
The timing shown assumes you have allowed five days.
Day One: The walk commences descending to the Franklin River and crossing it on a suspension bridge, before turning west and undulating around the hills and across some small plains. A boot-washing station is passed, and then the track starts to rise. There is a quite solid climb to the shoulder of Mount Mullens, before the well-made track descends steadily to the Loddon River. Getting there is likely to take two hours or more. Depending on start time, this may be a good spot for lunch, and there is even a seat. You can camp here.
The Loddon River is crossed on a suspension bridge, and you are now on the (sodden) Loddon Plains. However, the track has been greatly improved over this first section. After a while, you will notice a significant deterioration however. This is the soon-to-be avoided southern section. A new track has been cut and will open sometime soon (as at Apr 2013). This track will head up Laughtons Lead, cutting off the southern Loddon Plains and Philps Lead. It will no doubt be impossible to miss once actually opened. For now, the old track heads south across the quite muddy plains - the wettest bit of the old track. It then turns southwest up Philps Lead, and this section is less muddy, although just as wet, and tends to consist of standing or flowing water in runnels. However, these runnels have mainly eroded down to the gravel beneath and make for better walking. UPDATE: The Laughtons Lead section is now open, and you will find the track should now be a doddle. Hopefully it's made well enough not to collapse into new bog holes any time soon.
At the upper end of Philps Lead (where the new track will emerges), the track re-enters the forest and climbs quite steeply over the hill and down to Rumney Creek and then the Lake Vera Hut. This hut sleeps around 20, but would be pretty cosy at that capacity. The hut has a coal stove. Firelighters are very useful for getting these started. (Visitors note, huts are unattended. You can't buy food there.) There are some tent sites further along the track, but visitors are requested to use the hut in preference.
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| Tahune Hut stove |
Day Two: From Lake Vera Hut, the track twists and turns around the edge of the lake. This section of track has been upgraded in recent years which makes it easier, but progress is not rapid. At the far end of the lake, a creek is crossed on a small footbridge, and then the ascent to Barron Pass commences. This is a long, steep, wet climb, with many tree roots and slippery sections. However, it has also received a lot of attention, and many of the harder bits have been improved in recent years. This climb takes some time, but eventually you will emerge at Barron Pass, a great spot for a rest in good weather. If it is clear, you will have a magnificent view of Frenchmans Cap and surrounds from here. Alternatively, and probably just as likely, you may be inside the cloud. The pass is flanked by Sharlands Peak to the north and the ridge leading to Philps Peak to the south.
From here the track falls and climbs steeply and roughly around the slopes of Sharlands Peak. This section takes some time, and requires care with a large pack. After a while the track descends into Artichoke Valley, a wet area over-shadowed by strange rock formations. This area was severely burnt in the 1960s, and the dead pine trees are very obvious. The track climbs and falls steeply beyond here, partly on ladders, before emerging quite suddenly at the Lake Tahune Hut. This hut is spectacularly located below the northeast cliffs of the Cap, and has a helipad with grandstand views to the north, including the Eldon Range. There are a few tent sites along the track that goes to the lake shore. The hut supposedly sleeps 16, but this would be very cosy. It has a coal stove.
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| Lake Burbury from Frenchmans Cap. |
Day Three: The track continues past the hut and starts to climb steeply up the obvious gully to the North Col. The track was re-routed here a long time ago, and now makes a large zigzag across terraces above Lake Tahune. The climbing here is quite easy, and the views around make for very enjoyable climbing.
Having zagged back towards the Col, the route heads more steeply up the rock to the left (south). There are some scrambly sections, including one bit some will find tricky in a gully. With care and thought, this will be passed with little difficulty for most people. In snow or ice, you will need to consider whether proceeding is actually safe given your level of skill. There are certainly a couple of spots where a slip could result in serious injury.
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| Misty views seen from the northern slopes of Frenchmans Cap. |
The route is well marked and winds up the steep slopes, eventually becoming more gentle and arriving at the summit at the edge of the enormous cliff. Of course, great care is required, as a fall would be undoubtedly fatal. On a clear day, the views are astounding, and well worth the effort required to get there. Hopefully you have made time to be able to remain a while and soak it all in. You can spend a fair time wandering about the plateau.
If you have a full day for exploring the area of the peak, you can make your way to the North Col and beyond. A track heads further west along the ridge of the Lions Head, and eventually drops a long way to the Franklin River. This makes for a long return climb if followed all the way, but the first part of the ridge provides good walking and different views for those with some spare time.
The return is merely a retrace of your inward journey, and as noted above your return itinerary is up to you.
Other peaks
Nearby Sharlands Peak can be climbed relatively easily from along the track. Clytemnestra, Philps Peak and Mt Agamemnon are more complex. The book The Abels Volume 2 (Bill Wilkinson) contains descriptions of how to attain these summits. They all require off-track walking and navigational expertise.
Maps
Frenchmans Cap Walk Map and Notes - I suggest getting the laminated waterproof version from the Tasmanian Map Centre at 100 Elizabeth St, Hobart.
For really good detailed info, get the 1:25,000 maps Vera 4031 and Loddon 4032. These are also available laminated from the Map Centre as above.
Other information sources
The Parks and Wildlife Service have a page about this walk here.
The Abels Volume Two - Bill Wilkinson has good information about climbing Frenchmans Cap and surrounding high peaks.
John Chapman's South West Tasmania has a good description of the walk.
Frenchmans Cap - Four Seasons In One Hour
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| Clytemnestra seen from the summit of Frenchmans Cap |
I have provided a full walk description here which has some more photos.
My recent visit
This was my third visit to the Frenchmans Cap area. My first two were in 1998 and 1999. The first was an ill-conceived attempt by two only barely fit blokes to do Frenchmans in three days. The weather cracked up, and we were met at Barron Pass by horizontal sleet and hail, then found the creek had risen about two feet and broken its banks at the bottom of the hill when we returned there. My second visit was the next year, but was planned over five days, and in glorious weather I climbed Frenchmans Cap twice and wandered around the ridge towards the Franklin River. I was hoping for a repeat this year, but the weather forecast wasn't optimistic. |
| Lake Vera hut |
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| Lake Tahune hut |
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| View of misty hills from the slopes of Frenchmans Cap |
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| View downwards from the summit of Frenchmans Cap to Lake Cecily. |
Sunday, 14 April 2013
Grey Mountain - 13th April 2013
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| Rain over Huonville from Grey Mountain - 13th April 2013 |
This walk commences from Van Morey Road, Margate, (see map here) and offers views of the Huon and the mountains beyond. On the strength of this, it makes it into Walk the Huon, and I've updated the walk description there. The track and mountain are within what is now known as Snug Tiers Nature Recreation Area. This appears to be a sort of reserve in which 4WD vehicles and motorcycles are allowed, but the area is protected from some things, such as the taking of firewood not being allowed. If you do this walk, you will share the tracks with 4WDs and bikes, but these are all subject to the road rules and must be registered and drivers/riders licensed. My experience yesterday tells me the rule about registration is not adhered to, but the vehicles that were there were being used sensibly. There is one well-burnt car body along the route.
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| Buttongrass on Snug Plains, Grey Mountain Track - 13th April 2013 |
Saturday, 30 March 2013
Trestle Mountain - 24th January 2013
I had a very good walk to Trestle Mountain on a quite grey day. The last time I went was in May 2007, and little has changed. I've done some minor updating of the description on the Huon Walks website, so the walk description there is up to date. The most significant change seems to be that the creek I might once have thought was good to drink from seems to have a festering swamp behind a point where the track now crosses it. I think this has been caused by erosion and damming, probably by motorcycles passing through the creek. It'll probably be alright in winter when there's been enough rain to flush it out, but it wasn't looking too inviting a couple of months ago.
View Trestle Mountain in a larger map
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| The Huon Valley and Huon River from Trestle Mountain - 24th January 2013 |
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| Collins Bonnet from Trestle Mountain - 24th January 2013 |
Now, I have increased the size of jpg files I am uploading. I'm hoping the enlarged files still fit neatly within people's browser windows, and I assume most browsers will be set to resize larger photos anyway. If any regular viewers find they can't see the pictures properly though, let me know and I may do something about it.
View Trestle Mountain in a larger map
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