South Cape Bay - 14th May 2011

With a warning about dangerous surf and forecasts of eight-metre swells for Saturday 14th May, there was only one place to go: South Cape Bay. There are probably others, but walking to the bay also provides some good exercise. Never mind the attendant forecasts of rain, the seas promised some spectacular sights.  In the event the weather was a bit windy and occasionally drizzly, and it was certainly chilly out on the south coast, but overall the weather wasn't too bad. The waves were spectacular too, although I'd hoped to see them washing deeply across the entire beach. The beach was quite walkable, with only the occasional large wave managing to touch the little rocky projection in the middle with a few inches of froth. I note in hindsight that the tide was actually lowest during my visit. When walking on the beach however, the waves as they broke, hundreds of metres out, were clearly higher than where I was standing. Probably what we need to make it really spectacular is eight-metre swells forecast during an actual storm. Not sure how you'd manage to take photos of it though....

South Cape Bay washed by eight-metre swells, viewed from the cliffs - 14th May 2011

The view between Lion Rock and Coal Bluff, South Cape Bay - 14th May 2011

Foam in a wave-lashed South Cape Bay - 14th May 2011

Mount Wellington - 10th May 2011

Walked from Ferntree heading for the summit. From the city a dusting of snow across the upper half of the mountain was visible, which often means quite deep snow across the plateau, at least deep enough to make walking uncomfortable. Having reached the Springs via Fern Glade and Radfords Track, I headed for the Icehouse Track. Near the top of this, the snow became evident. It wasn't very deep generally, but in places it would have been deep enough to make walking more difficult, except it was really firm and dry, even providing a nice grip. Made for very nice walking across the summit plateau. I met two blokes on the plateau who reported the Zig-Zag Track was really quite icy, which confirmed as best my intention to return via the Panorama Track.

Up the Icehouse to the south and down the Panorama in the north makes for a sort of "Grand Tour" of Mount Wellington. There's a bit of road walking required to use the Panorama, but on a weekday it was fairly quiet and safe. I completed the walk with a descent to Junction Cabin down Hunters Track, ascending to The Springs and finishing with the short descent back to Ferntree. Two (different) blokes at Junction Cabin had ascended via the Old Hobartians Track from Lenah Valley, and I think being an old Hobartian, I should probably do that one sometime. It has a side connection (roughly, I think) to the bottom of Lost World, which might make for an even "grander" tour.

Boulders on the summit plateau of Mount Wellington - 10th May 2011

Boulders on the summit plateau of Mount Wellington - 10th May 2011

Nevada Peak - 6th and 7th May 2011

In a week of variable weather, the Friday and Saturday looked like providing the best opportunity to camp at high altitude in reasonable conditions. Off to Nevada Peak for the first time since my last overnight trip there. This is however, a day walk if you wish, taking around six to eight hours depending on your route and general speed. The tarns and the alpine plateau are lovely though, and an environmentally-sensitive overnight stay at the Snowdrift Tarns is great. I have some more information about the walk here, which will direct you to email me for the complex road directions and a walk description, including details for returning via Woolleys Tarn.

I climbed to the tarns in overcast, chilly and misty conditions. The clouds seemed to consist of a huge amount of very fine, but very wet, drizzle, and I was quite chilly by the time I got to the tarns. Once in the tent and with a coffee and nibbles inside me, all was well. The drizzle persisted until dark though, with the view consisting of the inside of the cloud and a small area of foot-high alpine herbfield around the tarn. I was hopeful that the weather would remain calm at least, in high winds the plateau here is a harsh environment despite some shelter from westerly weather afforded by the mountain ridge.

Waking quite early, my first look outside suggested that the cloud remained. However, once out of the tent I realised that the peak was out of the cloud, and the sun was rising beautifully. I set off to climb Nevada Peak immediately, camera in hand. Views were great and the following photos give a taste. The views of the Anne Range are particularly fine from Nevada Peak. Having returned to the tarn for breakfast later, the clouds again closed in, and by the time I had retreated across the plateau to return to my car, the peak was only occasionally visible through swirling clouds again. In the end, it was worth the walk for the views from the peak and plateau, but I had been dubious about it on the Friday evening huddled in my tiny tent.

Eastward view across the lower Snowdrift Tarn
from upper slopes of Nevada Peak - 7th May 2011

My own personal triple-rainbow appeared just above me in the
misty morning air, Nevada Peak - 7th May 2011

Snowy South and the upper Snowdrift Tarn from Nevada Peak summit - 7th May 2011

Anne Range from Nevada Peak - 7th May 2011

Mount Field West - 3rd May 2011

Mount Field West seen from the Rodway Range. K-Col Hut visible on the left - 3rd May 2011

With good weather forecast, at least for most places, a good mountain walk was in order. I chose Mount Field West, a walk I have always enjoyed, if always found to require a good deal of effort. The walk is 16km and requires about 750m of climbing, including the climb back over the Rodway Range on the return. A significant portion of the walk is on boulders which require care and extra effort, and once you are beyond the Tarn Shelf turnoff, the track is mostly quite rough, even where it's not on boulders. The summit plateau at Mount Field West is lovely though, and views to the west and southwest can be terrific, Florentine Valley forestry operations notwithstanding. On this day I got pretty good views for much of the day, but the cloud came in while I was at the actual peak, so no westward views this time.

Walk Description: The track is well marked for use in clear weather, but may be difficult to follow in rain and fog. Be aware that once in the vicinity of the peak, the return is over several kilometres of extremely exposed route. There are no more sheltered alternatives, although there is a very small hut at K-Col which would provide shelter in an emergency. This hut has no stove. This walk is not worth attempting in poor weather. Cloud, rain and wind should all give pause. Be prepared to alter walk plans at Lake Dobson, or even once in the vicinity of Tarn Shelf if weather conditions seem poor. You will get a taste of them on the top of the Rodway Range, and if weather there makes walking uncomfortable, be aware that this will persist for the remaining distance of the walk until you are back below the Rodways, or even until you are back below the Ski Village.

The walk commences at Lake Dobson, following the track around the lake and then quite steeply up the ski lodge access road. Where the first ski lodges are found, I prefer the walking track that passes in front of them and then winds up to the plateau through boulders and alpine gums. This emerges on the main board walk which heads along towards Tarn Shelf and the main bulk of the Rodway Range. The track again climbs quite steeply onto the Rodway Range, starting a lengthy traverse on boulders. These slow progress somewhat and require greater exertion. Being somewhat unbalanced, I always find them more awkward. The way is marked with cairns and poles and winds along the top of the range through a depression known as The Lions Den before eventually crossing to the western side and descending towards K-Col. The hut will be clearly visible a little way up the far side of the col. K-Col is so named because of the shape of the topography - the col joins the Rodway Range to the peaks of Tyenna, Florentine, Naturaliste and Field West, making a sort-of "K" on the map. The hut used to have a water tank and coal stove, but these are no more. Possibly to discourage camping, as the hut is now clearly signed as being for emergency use only. Water can be obtained a little way beyond the hut from Clemes Tarn. I don't vouch for the quality of the water, but I didn't catch anything from it.


Clemes Tarn in a misty mood - 3rd May 2011

Beyond Clemes Tarn the track climbs steadily along the ridge towards Naturaliste Peak, before passing alongside this eminence and emerging onto the large summit plateau. The pools and vegetation here are very attractive, and it is a lovely place on a sunny and clear day. The actual summit is at the top of a ramp rising to the west from the northern end of the plateau, and the track is marked across the plateau and up the ramp. There is a good sized cairn at the summit, and space to sit on flat rocks if the weather is conducive to eating lunch there. At the summit, you are 8km from the carpark, so a solid return walk including the bouldery traverse of the Rodways is required. The only variation I sometimes make to the return is to follow the boardwalk all the way to the ski village and then descend the uppermost section of road to rejoin the inward track.


Looking back towards Naturaliste Peak across the Mount Field West summit plateau,
from the summit of Mount Field West - 3rd May 2011

Mount Wellington - 2nd May 2011

Dolerite boulders on the southern end of the summit plateau, Mount Wellington - 2nd May 2011

It was a middling sort of day, cloud around the mountain but not raining. Had a nice walk from the Springs to the summit on the Zig-Zag Track, and then across the plateau, returning via the Icehouse Track. The breeze was light, and made for a good walk.

Mount Maria - 29th April 2011

Mount Maria from the track near Counsell Creek - 29th April 2011
(The track turns left just beyond the bridge.)

Mount Maria is a good solid walk from Darlington. I previously climbed it as a sidetrip on my return from camping at Encampment Cove. The track runs up a ridge as a sidetrip off the Inland Track. Mount Maria is 709m tall, so this represents a significant climb for those not used to such ascents. The distance is 16km, so all up the walk requires more effort than Bishop and Clerk. A moderate level of fitness is recommended before attempting this walk. Note also that while much of the walk is on a well-made track with surprisingly few obstructions for Tasmania, the last section is across boulders and a little easy scrambling is required just before the summit.

Walk Description: Leaving Darlington, head south towards the Painted Cliffs. Cross Counsell Creek and take the left-hand turn ahead. This is clearly marked to Mount Maria. From here the track heads pretty much straight for the peak, gradually becoming steeper throughout its length. A little way up the hill there is a track intersection. Mount Maria is to the left and the right fork continues southwards as the "Inland Track". Pushbikes can be parked at this point if you have ridden them here. The track continues to climb, and is easy to follow. There is a good spot at the top of a small sandstone cliff for a morning tea break. Eventually the track emerges on to a sizable dolerite rock scree and the way is marked across and then up. This scree is not nicely laid out with a windy track like the one on Bishop and Clerk, but requires a bit of clambering. The trig point will become obvious above from here, and a bit of easy scrambling will see you on the summit enjoying views of The Isthmus, South Maria, the mainland and more. The return is basically a retrace, and most people will find the boulders take about as long to get down safely as they did to climb up laboriously. Overall, most parties will take the advertised 5 to 7 hours for this walk, and some will take longer.

The Isthmus and South Maria from Mount Maria - 29th April 2011

The Painted Cliffs, Maria Island

The Painted Cliffs at sunset - 28th April 2011

This is a nice easy walk over the hill to the south of Darlington. From the top of the hill, you can see these cliffs at the far end of Hopground Beach. When you get down to Counsell Creek, with the new bridge, you can either head along the beach or continue along the road. If using the road, there are some steps at the far end of the beach taking you down to the start of the cliffs. These cliffs are best visited when the tide is low, and I think if you went at high tide, you would have a greater chance of getting damp as you clamber around the cliffs. You need to go around the first and second little points, and make your way along in front of the taller part of the cliffs. The cliffs are Triassic sandstone, the rich patterns caused by minerals in the rock and the way in hich they have subsequently weathered. I visited them a couple of times on my recent trip, once at sunset, which was very attractive.

Maria Island Historic Walks

The convict barn above the jetty at Darlington - 30th April 2011.

You can easily spend a day (or more) just wandering around Darlington and taking in the various historic buildings, remains and sites. The Parks and Wildlife Service have several publications available that provide basic information, and several of the buildings contain information, displays and books that will provide more info. The parks.tas.gov.au website has a lot of info, and most of the historical information is in this part of the site. More general Maria Island info is here, and there's a downloadable pdf specifically about the history around Darlington. You may find other stuff if you ferret about.
There are a number of books with good information, perhaps most easily found and accessible being Maggie Weidenhofer's "Maria Island, A Tasmanian Eden". You can sometimes find this in second-hand bookshops, on eBay or on Biblioz. (Note that Biblioz tends to be very expensive!) If looking for secondhand Tasmanian books I recommend: Just Tassie Books, Astrolabe Booksellers and the Imperial Bookshop. The third of those is a true experience, just don't expect tidiness!

The Fossil Cliffs, Maria Island - 28th April 2011

Bishop and Clerk from the shore below the Fossil Cliffs - 28th April 2011

I had a relaxing day around Darlington - fossils, human history and a sunset visit to the Painted Cliffs (later). I've visited the Fossil Cliffs many times, but have actually never ventured beyond the little "quarry" plateau. On this occasion, having been shown the track by another visitor, I went down to the shoreline east of the quarry and along the platforms and bouldery shore at the base of the cliffs, which was well worthwhile. Note however that you need to take great care if going beyond the quarry - the day I went was low tide with a very gentle sea. This is clearly a place where large waves can and do sweep everything below the cliffline. You will need to carefully choose low tide to visit, and not venture too far down if the sea is dangerous.

---

Walk Description: To visit the Fossil Cliffs, head towards the jetty, and then beyond up the obvious tracks, or just straight across the hillside towards the barn on the hill north of the silos. There are various historic sites along the track to add additional interest, but in general follow the track (old tram line) as it contours very easily northwards alongside the airstrip towards Cape Boullanger. The track curls around to the east and arrives at the low end of the Fossil Cliffs with views to Bishop and Clerk. The track heads downhill onto the little plateau where limestone was quarried. Here there are boulders and a large sign explaining some of the fossils you can see.

The rocks here are interesting enough, but to see the fossils at their best, continue to the far end of the plateau. Here a scrappy little track heads steeply down a short way onto the large boulders and rock platforms of the foreshore. Be very careful here. I don't think there is any official sanction for proceeding here, so you need to take responsibility for checking the sea condition. As will be obvious, a large wave could turn you and your family into a tragic statistic very quickly. At low tide in gentle seas, you can easily spend an hour or two exploring the base of the cliffs. I didn't go too far around the cliffs, as there comes a point fairly quickly where you have to get wet feet. I also have no idea where you would find safety as you progressed further around the base of the larger parts of the cliffs. With a little more information, there is probably a heap of exploring you could do. Anyway, to avoid becoming a statistic, I stopped at the point where another group decided they need snorkels and flippers to proceed.

The walk is very short and very easy, but can occupy time very effectively if conditions are good for explring the shore at the base of the cliffs. I would suggest if you can time it for low tide on a calm day that you allow 3 hours or so depending on your capacity for avid investigation of natural features. Also, I note that this location appears to be outside the "no fishing" part of the marine reserve, so might offer some good rockfishing opportunities.

---

A section of a bed in the Fossil Cliffs, Maria Island, composed almost
entirely of fossil shellfish - 28th April 2011

The rocks are fascinating, and confusing. I have found a great document on the web explaining the various layers that are present, but you would need to have it in your hand as you explored to fully understand the rock layers here. I'll take it with me next time I visit. This document is in the Mineral Resources Tasmania database, and gives lots of Maria Island geological info in a pretty detailed way. The Fossil Cliffs are described starting on page 9 (Basal Beds). There are beds of fossils here, metres thick, in which the entire bed seems to be composed of fossils. There are other beds with wildly varying sizes and types of boulder/pebble inclusions. All very interesting.

I will put some more photos up on Picasa as I find time to edit them a little.

The Isthmus, Maria Island - 27th April 2011

Riedle Bay, Maria Island - 27th April 2011

The south end of Maria Island is generally best visited (if walking) from a camping base at either French's Farm or Encampment Cove. This is what I did on my previous trip. You can get to these places either by walking from Darlington or being dropped at Encampment Cove or Chinamans bay by boat. I believe one of the ferry companies may offer this service. You can also cycle, but if you are biking, you may find that you can visit South Maria in daytrips from Darlington. Just be aware that the track across the Isthmus is very sandy and I think cycling on it would be very difficult - these few kilometres might be a push.

The south end of the north island and South Maria itself are very interesting. Many walkers to French's Farm just walk a further very short distance to Chinamans Bay, which is the northern curve of Shoal Bay and is a very calm sheltered spot to sit for lunch. I walked on a bit further to The Isthmus, as I wanted to visit Riedle Bay. This is the ocean beach on the eastern side of The Isthmus. Just be aware that walking this far is around 14.5km each way, and can make for quite a long walk for those not used to such distances. Other walks possible from Darlington, but also quite lengthy, are to Encampment Cove, Point Lesueur (convict cell ruins) or the beaches north of there. These beaches include Four Mile Beach, Soldiers Beach and Bloodstone Beach. It is apparently possible to walk to Point Lesueur via the roads and tracks and then return via the coast to Return Point (track from there to the main road) or Four Mile Beach. This might be a walk for my next trip.

Walk Description: It is around 11 km from Darlington to French's Farm. Further walks beyond there will extend the total walk to 25-29km. Make sure you really want to walk this far in a day. There are few hills, and those which exist are quite gentle and low, so your exertions won't be added to by vertical ascents. The road heads south out of Darlington, over the first headland on the same track as the Painted Cliffs walk. There are few navigational problems, and the track proceeds southwards, undulating over the low headlands and around the coastline. At Four Mile Creek/Beach the track heads a little more inland, before arriving at French's Farm. From here you choose to walk on to Chinamans Bay (very close by), Encampment Cover or The Isthmus. The Chinamans Bay track heads off to the right just beyond the bridge. To walk on further to the wilder ocean beach of Riedle Bay you have to walk about 35 minutes on the softish sandy track until you find an obvious track crossing the main track. Turn left and in a couple of minutes you emerge on the large beach which in heavy weather can be quite wild. I estimated that the total walk, not including any wandering up and down the beach was 28 or 29km.

Riedle Bay may only be good for swimming at certain points or in very calm weather. On each of my visits (three now) it has appeared to have very significant undertow and rips, and could only be recommended to the very experienced. The far northern and southern ends of the beach may be safer and more sheltered. The centre of the beach can certainly be subjected to large waves sweeping up to and even into the dunes when the weather is rough. However, this also makes this an attractive place to visit. If you want a gentle paddle and swim, maybe the western side of The Isthmus would be preferable.

Bishop and Clerk (Maria Island) - 26th April 2011

Bishop and Clerk from the Fossil Cliffs - 26th April 2011

Bishop and Clerk is the prominent peak at the northeastern extremity of Maria Island, obvious on the approach from the sea, and visible from many points around Darlington. It provides superb views of the northern end of the island, Freycinet Peninsula to the north and the mainland. Views can also be had along the eastern side of Maria Island.

The walk will take most people 3 1/2 to 5+ hours to complete including some time to sit on the summit and take in the view. It is a solid climb of over 600m vertically, so a moderate level of fitness will be useful. The highest part of the mountain has a small amount of rock scrambling which occasionally defeats people otherwise comfortable with the walk. Along this walk and on the summit there are very large unprotected cliffs, so care is required. Most importantly, children need to be closely supervised when walking near the Fossil Cliffs.

Walk Description: Take the track behind the penitentiary out of Darlington, heading east towards the reservoir. Avoid the turnoffs for the Reservoir Circuit walk and continue north out onto open grassy slopes up to the Fossil Cliffs. These are unfenced and have steep rolling, crumbly, slippery edges. Keep children close at all times. The track turns eastwards and climbs on grassy hills towards Bishop and Clerk. There are fine views of the peak and the cliffs at various points, with the sea far below. The track enters the forest and continues to climb steadily. (There is a point here where you have to leave pushbikes.)

The track is easy to follow and mostly climbs steadily and occasionally steeply through the forest then across some scree. At the top of the scree you are getting close. There are some steep bits here in bouldery gullies, and one little scramble which can be tricky for those who can't work out where to put their hands and feet to maintain balance. Children may have to be helped - I had to "put" my children up this bit some years ago when they were big enough for the walk but small enough to lift. A bit of clambering right at the top, and you emerge on a quite small flat platform with cracks and very steep cliffs to north and east. This sits above the other peaks which are obvious and picturesque to the north, and the height according to the map is 629m. The views on a clear day are superb and worth the climb. The return walk is a retrace, but can be varied by returning around Cape Boullanger to arrive at Darlington from the coast rather than from inland.

The lower peaks of Bishop and Clerk, and Freycinet Peninsula,
seen from the summit - 26th April 2011

Maria Island - 25th to 30th April 2011

Having visited Maria Island about 18 months ago and walked to the south end of the island, I thought it was time to return and do redo some of the walks at the northern end. I got a week of superb weather, and will provide some posts about the individual walks.

A note on transport: Make sure you ring the ferry companies (this one, and this one) and check exactly what times they are sailing. One of them was actually sailing at slightly different times to their advertised schedule last week. You really do need to book as early as possible to make sure they are going when you expect, and that some unexpected change isn't going to throw out your plans.

The camping area: This has changed. Following the floods which occurred before and after my last trip, the camping area was flooded significantly by water which overtopped the reservoir. They now have concerns about the safety of the reservoir, and have moved the camping ground over to where the barbecue shelter and shower block are. (Yes, you can get showers.) It's not a bad site, and is certainly more convenient for cooking under cover.

Before any trip, check out these pages at Parks and Wildlife, and give them a ring with any questions. They are very helpful. Note especially that you can't buy anything on Maria Island except a shower. You will need to take everything you need for however long you are going to stay. The rangers are really good at giving you advice about the best activities for your interests, abilities and length of stay.

The Painted Cliffs, Maria Island - 26th April 2011